13 October 2020 - Steve Sparkes

Food Notes by Nick Reynolds and wine notes by Richard Gibson

Steve Sparkes is one of our newest members, joining only after the initial CoVid-19 restrictions were eased.

He has helped three times in the kitchen already and today was his first outing as Chef of the Day.

Steve’s wife, Marina, is of Italian descent and Steve has a very strong interest in this type of cuisine. Today he demonstrated that he supports this interest with a very strong cooking ability.

Food

Steve prepared two Italian dishes for us today.

The first dish, which was served as an entrée, was Quail Tortellini in Brodo adapted from a Recipe by Lucio Galletto from Lucio’s in Paddington. Steve first cooked the quail in chicken broth and then shredded the meat. He then combined the meat with parmesan, English spinach, and a dusting of grated nutmeg. The Tortellini were hand-made with very thin pasta. The bones from the quail were returned to the chicken stock with the addition of more brown chicken stock. Steve created the base broth from this, which he then froze. This was then thawed in the refrigerator and strained through fine cloth to clarify to an almost consommé clarity. Today in serving, he added finely sliced brown mushrooms to the bowls, which were cooked by the addition of the hot broth, as well as four tortellini per serve, baby herb leaves, and some parmesan cheese. The Brodo was extremely flavoursome and so full of gelatine that it was lip-smacking while the tortellini was extremely flavoursome in their fine pasta parcels.

The second dish that Steve prepared for us was a variant on a recipe from the London-based Italian restaurant, River Café for Ossobuco alla Milanese. Steve specially ordered thick-cut Ossobuco for the dish, which were filling and substantial, particularly after the rich broth entrée. The Ossobuco was slow-cooked in the morning and combined with the normal tomato sauce enriched by onion, celery, tomato and parsley. The traditional accompaniment for Ossobuco Milanese is Risotto Milanese, which is saffron-infused. Being a purist, Steve wasn’t prepared to compromise the Risotto by cooking it at the venue. He therefore pre-cooked it and then let it cool in rounds. This is the Northern Italian method of using leftover risotto (the southerners tend to make Arancini). He fried the risotto cakes at the Royal Exchange and served them along with the Ossobuco, and a green bean and snap pea with hazelnuts vegetable dish from Yotam Ottolenghi. The dish was topped with the traditional parsley and garlic gremolata as well as enough sauce to moisten the meat.

Comments were extremely favourable about the food, with some saying that it was restaurant quality (or better). One particular comment was that it wasn’t overwhelmed by tomato as can sometimes be the case with Ossobuco. The flavours were extremely well balanced.

The Cheese of the Day, which was chosen by James Healey and presented by Mark Bradford, was a 6-month old cloth-bound Pyengana Cheddar, which was one of the cheeses that Steve suggested. His preference for this cheese was that it is Tasmanian, which is where he was brought up. The cheese presented very well today and was accompanied by a dressed mixed-leaf salad and a slice of a homemade date/fig/walnut/pistachio loaf that Steve made especially for today.

The coffee today was once again from Ona Marrickville. It was a seasonal blend from their Springtime Picnic range. The coffee combined flavours of sweet orange, caramelised citrus peel, floral honey with baked stone fruit that combined in a blend called Orange Marmalade.

The President presented Steve with his WFSNSW apron, which is given to people when they are Chef of the Day for the first time. With the quality of what was presented today, we hope we don’t have to wait too long before he cooks again.

Wine

The lunch theme was Northern Italian.

The Tortellini di Qaglia in Brodo was served with two Aussie chardonnays.

The family-owned 2018 Murdoch Hill Tilbury Chardonnay comes from a single vineyard in the Adelaide Hills (Piccadilly sub-region).  Michael Downer, the winemaker is one of the most exciting young winemakers in the Hills and uses a minimalist approach in his winemaking using whole bunch (handpicked) fermentation with wild yeast, partial malolactic fermentation followed by ageing in old French oak casks.

The nose displayed struck flint characters, lime and stone fruit and hints of minerality. 

On the palate a rich, peachy, acid-driven balance was found with the lees treatment adding to the complexity – overall it was an attractive, balanced, fleshy and lively wine which matched the tortellini very well.

The 2010 Montgomery Mulberry Block MR chardonnay comes from 20+-year-old vines in Albany WA and is barrel fermented and aged for 9 months in French oak. It displays a stone fruit and lemony nose, with reductive/struck match characters. On the palate, we saw a full-bodied, complex wine showing some flintiness and even a bit of spice with good length (and plenty of acidity).  The wine also complemented the tortellini and broth but the room was divided on which was the better wine. On balance it was probably the younger more acid-driven Murdoch Hill with the Montgomery perhaps beginning to show its age.

The main course was served with two Nebbiolos, one Australian and one Italian, Nebbiolo being a prominent varietal in both Piemonte and Lombardy.  Both were excellent matches with the beautifully cooked and flavoursome osso buco and risotto.

The 2014 Massolino Langhe Nebbiolo (under stelvin; 14% alc) is effectively an entry-level “declassified” Barolo, the fruit coming from younger Serralunga vines, the fruit from which will in time go into the Barolo commune wine. Smaller amounts of older vine fruit were also blended in to give the wine some more structure.  The wine was aged in large Slavonian oak barrels (like all Barolos) for 18 months (Barolos are aged for 24 months)  and undergoes circa 10 days maceration.

On the nose, the wine exhibited immediate fragrant floral characters and shows finesse. Upon opening up it revealed classic Langhe Nebbiolo aromas, displaying forest floor, wild berries and a spicy note. On the palate, we saw classic savoury, chalky minerality characters and Nebbiolo “tar”, balance and good length. Overall we experienced a delicious and refined wine from a good vintage which is drinking very well now and was perfectly paired with the osso buco and risotto.

The 2013 SC Pannell Adelaide Hills Nebbiolo (14% alc) has achieved a certain “cult” status as Pannell is one of the few new world producers that can turn Nebbiolo fruit into a wine that highlights the varietal characters of Nebbiolo and is sufficiently structured. The wine is made in the traditional Barolo style utilising open vat fermentation, extended maceration and pressing to achieve the required tannin profile. The wine goes through malolactic fermentation (in stainless steel) and is aged for circa 14 months in a mix of small old Hungarian oak barrels and large vats.

The nose displays perfumed cherry and blackcurrant characters (but perhaps lacks the roses and violets of Lange wines).  On the palate the wine was medium-bodied , showing an attractive balance of fruit, smooth tannins and acid albeit that the fruit is now fading a little resulting in the wine being a little ‘short’ – indicating the wine is perhaps past its best although still good drinking and well matched to the food.

The cheese course saw an elegant Cote de Rhone (14% alc) paired with a less forgiving  Barossa shiraz.

The Cote de Rhone is an entry-level wine from the famous Rhone producer Guigal but punches above its weight displaying all the characters seen in Guigal’s more highly feted wines.  The fruit was grown on 35-year-old vines and is a blend of Shiraz (49%), Grenache (48%) and Mouvedre (3%) made in the traditional style with temp controlled fermentation, long maceration experiencing an extended time on lees and is aged for 18 months in oak. 

The colour is dense ruby red/purple and the wine displayed red berries, spice and even lavender notes on the nose.  The palate was round and well balanced with smooth tannins and fruit (which is, however, beginning to fade somewhat).  On opening, a hint of oxidation was detected in one bottle but this blew off over time.  In summary, a very enjoyable elegant wine displaying finesse and balance which is perhaps drinking past its peak but was well matched to the Pyngana Cheddar.

The final wine was, appropriately, served last. Glaetzer has developed an enviable reputation for producing bold wines expressing the bigger style of Barossa Shiraz and the 2006 Bishop (14.4% alc) certainly delivered this in spades. 

The fruit comes from vines with average 60 years of age, and is fermented in open vats, experiences extended maceration and is aged for circa 15 months in new and old barrels (circa 70% French and 30% American).  The colour is dense and black (with some garnet on the edges). The nose displays forward black cherry and blackcurrant characters, cedar and spice - however, some “green”/capsicum notes were evident.

The palate was rich and opulent with explosive vanilla and blackberry flavours and very ripe big tannins.

This wine was not to everyone’s liking presenting as high alcohol, bold full-bodied plummy wine that is not yet in balance (and some members queried whether it would ever be in balance). It was more than a match to the Tasmanian cheddar.

Also served following lunch was a delicious aged NV Cuvee Brut Champagne from the house of Jacquart, which was generously donated by John Rourke and was probably the best match to the cheese.  The Cuvee is a blend of predominantly Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from multiple vintages.  The Chardonnay gave the wine its freshness and delicate aromas whilst the Pinot added a nuanced level of structure all balanced nicely by a few years of cellar ageing.

Overall the wines were very enjoyable with smart pairings presented for each course which highlighted the differences between the wine styles.  Moreover, the wines displayed the benefits of the movement over recent years towards less interventionist winemaking techniques and adoption of organic principles.

6 October - CoTD Roger Straiton

Food review by James Tinslay and wine review by Chilly Hargrave.

Roger Straiton returned to the kitchen this week unassisted by members but with the help of Leo and kitchen staff for serving. James Hill, who was running the lunch today pointed out to those assembled that it was the tenth anniversary of Roger’s membership of the Society.

Steve Liebeskind attended the lunch briefly to advise members of the Tour de Cure cancer charity that the Society Committee had agreed to support by way of members donating a bottle or two (or more) for a charity silent auction. They can be bought to REX and Steve will have then photographed and catalogued for the auction. A separate email on the matter had been sent to all members.

Entree

Roger started us off with a gazpacho, not red but white. The soup was quite liquid and was based on the usual suspect, cucumber. After that, he went to yoghurt, almond meal, garlic and sherry vinegar. The somewhat surprise ingredient was grapes which added a distinctive sweetness to the soup. There were also some plump green grapes floating in the service bowl. Comments were very positive even from one cucumber hater (me) who thought the dish was excellent. Roger explained that the recipe was based on a dish served in a restaurant in San Francisco.

With the gazpacho and the cheese, we enjoyed Iggy’s bread once again supplied by James Hill.

Main course

The main drew on a dish Roger had enjoyed at the Carved Angel at Dartmouth in Devon. The chef, Joyce Molyneaux was the first female chef in England to be awarded a Michelin Star. The dish could only be described as vibrant looking with a range of colours that instantly had one thinking of Indian. Roger was nicknamed Raj Straiton!

However, the dish was not Indian but was a chicken thigh dish based on red peppers or pimentos (no less than 2 kg) but then, included the usual Indian ingredients of coriander, cumin, onion, ginger and garlic, to provide a wonderful deep flavour without heat. Roger avoided any heat in the meal in acknowledgement to this being a wine lunch. The photo of the main says it all. The yellow rice was coloured with turmeric to give the plate that vibrant look. Broccoli was served as the healthy side dish and the plating was topped off with flaked almonds.

The dish was more than just enjoyable as it was such an unusual style of meal to serve at Society lunches.

Cheese

The cheese today was selected by the Cheesemaster, James Healey, who was absent and it was presented by James Hill. It was the Cabot Clothbound Cheddar from Vermont in the USA and whilst we had been served this a couple of times before nobody called it but no far off track guessing Australian cheddar. This crumbly cheddar is wrapped in cloth then coated in lard in its maturation time which imparts a nutty earthy aroma when the cloth is removed. It has a beautiful sweetness to the finish with a crystalline structure to the bite.

Coffee

Our coffee was sourced once again by Nick Reynolds from the Ona stable. Today’s was El Salvador Himalaya Red Caturra. The notes provided “The lot was dried slowly in the shade for thirty days on African beds to bring out the rich, honey notes, juicy apple tones and light tropical finish.

Look for hints of honeydew melon and passionfruit notes, which will develop and intensify as the brew cools down”. I dosed this quite generously but more still more quantity may have given it a stronger body and strength. A beautifully mild coffee.

Wine (comments based on the same six Penfolds Bin 389 served the previous week)

Special wine note: Ray Healey bought a bottle of the 1971 Grange which was carefully poured in most of the 25 glasses. It somewhat divided the room and despite it being a great year for Grange, some thought past it’s best. I suspect the division was based on those who like upfront fruit and those who enjoy old wines to appreciate the aged characteristics. We can never please everyone’s tastes and that if the point of wine discussion. Dan's has a bottle for a cool $2900! Thank you Ray.

Lustau Jurana Fino - very fresh and went well with the cool gazpacho.

Seppelt Drumborg Riesling 2016 - a powerful wine full of varietal character. Still young and should develop beautifully for those who like aged characters over youngish fresh fruit.

The theme for today’s wine lunch was Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz. Of interest is that 1994 to 2012 covers the tenure of John Duval (who took over from Don Ditter in 1986) and Peter Gago (just the 4th maker of Grange) who’s first vintage was 2003.

The mixing of Cabernet and Shiraz is an Australian classic combing the structure of the former with the richness of the latter. Not sure if he was first, but Bin 389 was created by Max Schubert in 1960 and it’s often called “Baby Grange”, but more often “Poor Man’s Grange.” It carries a South Australian appellation and is drawn from the major SA viticultural regions. Most commonly Wrattonbully, Padthaway, McLaren Vale and the Barossa, but also Bordertown and Langhorne Creek, and occasionally Clare. Labelled Cabernet Shiraz, it must by law contain more Cabernet (generally Sauvignon) than Shiraz. While Shiraz can express itself well in all of the regions mentioned above, Cabernet is a little fickle - a bit Mother bear, needing not too hot, not too cold. Certainly, it’s more favoured by a maritime climate. It is generally aged in American oak (perhaps one-third new) and often second use Grange barrels - hence the nickname.

Obviously, Penfolds has enormous Shiraz resources, producing Grange Bin 95, RWT Bin 798, Magill Estate, St Henri, Bin 128, Bin 28, Bin 150, The Noble Explorer, Century Vines etc. etc. plus numerous special Bins. High-quality Cabernet resources are much thinner on the ground. Consequently, Bin 389 normally has on,y a little more Cabernet than Shiraz. It is interesting to look at the 6 vintages presented to see which variety shows through.

The 2012 (Cabernet 54%, Shiraz 46%) was the only one of the six wines closed with screw cap. It certainly was young, albeit a little reduced. There was a complexity of fruit, oak and tannin. Perhaps too much tannin at this stage. Penfolds is renowned for the addition of tannin to provide structure and mid-palate. The vintage is described by low yields and small berries. A lot of concentration here, but still closed (another use of the word).

The 2004 vintage, following on after the hot, dry 2003, was a large crop and, after a cool summer, was consequently a very late harvest. Today’s wine showed a certain elegance with some green Cabernet (53%) notes overtaken by rich, plum Shiraz (47%). Quite a lot of oak still sitting on the wine.

The 2002 wine (Cabernet 54%, Shiraz 46%) was from another cool and late vintage. Here the yield was low with smaller berries. It was more Cabernet focused than the previous two, with distinct blackcurrant, mint notes supported by some rich Shiraz fruit and astute oak use.

The 1998 vintage was one of the most highly regarded vintages of the nineties and often named as one of the great years. It was high yielding, but all varieties expressed wonderful fruit aromas. Cabernet was particularly esteemed. The Bin 389 showed characters of both varieties. Some minty Cabernet (58%) with plummy Shiraz (42%). However, it disappointed with its development and lack of depth. For many, the least liked of the six.

The 1996 assemblage is not identified on the Penfolds website, as for the 1994. This wine was more Shiraz than Cabernet with blackberry and cedar oak notes. The palate had great structure with complex fruits and an excellent tannin balance. One of the preferred wines.

The 1994 vintage was preceded by a cool summer resulting in a late vintage. Often this can produce rather green characters in Cabernet. In this Bin 389, these we’re certainly present but had softened to show hints of Bordeaux cassis. The Shiraz was much more in the background and tannins were fine-grained. Another favourite on the day.

29 September 2020 - CoTD Steve Liebeskind

Food review by Nick Reynolds and wine review y Chilly Hargrave

Food

Today saw Steve Liebeskind in a welcome return to the kitchen. He was ably assisted by new member, Steve Sparkes, who since joining the Society during lockdown has become a rather regular assistant in the kitchen.

Steve L. is a dab hand at repurposing ingredients leftover from the other lunch components. Today he took the trimmings left over from the potatoes featuring in the main course and created a soup by adding broccoli, stock, lots of white pepper, lemon juice along with some milk and cream. The peppery nature of the soup led some to suggest that it contained celery.

The next dish was a vegetable terrine containing leeks, beans, red capsicum, carrots, pumpkin, cream, stock, and tomatoes topped with a green salsa. Unfortunately, the mousse that was meant to bind the dish together didn’t, creating a challenge for plating that was well met (see picture). It was tasty and a good opportunity for members to comment that they met their vegetable requirements for the next month in the two first courses.

The main was an extremely well-presented dish that was appreciated before the first bite in line with the maxim that “you first eat with your eyes.” Steve presented slow-cooked Mediterranean lamb shoulder (11-12 hours at 100 C). The spices used in the marinade then went into a vegetable roux, creating a slight mild curry effect that complemented the lamb extremely well. What some presumed were scallops were in fact potatoes that had been baked and then seared. As mentioned above, the trimmings from these went into the soup. The lamb was served on a pea puree with Dutch carrots that still had their skin, which made a very good texture contrast in the dish. The final component was a baked eggplant spread finely with miso. The dish was well commented on by the assembled members and a good accompaniment to our Penfolds 389 fest.

Steve requested a washed rind cheese today and our Cheese Master James Healey provided a Society favourite, Tallegio DOP, an artisan cow’s cheese from Lombardy, Italy. Steve accompanied this with a dressed green salad, further increasing members’ vegetable intake for the day.

The coffee today was once again sourced from Ona coffee. This time we had a coffee-inspired by owner Sasa Sestic’s 2015 World Barista Championship Coffee, which was created by applying the wine fermenting technique of Carbonic Maceration to coffee beans. The process when used with wine brings out fruity elements. It does the same with coffee, in this case creating the aptly named Raspberry Candy.

Today we celebrated Frank Liebeskind’s birthday and the dish Steve provided was one his brother requested. Frank, we compliment you both on your birthday and your choice of dish.

A Penfold’s wine tasting was also the perfect occasion to toast the memory of our recently departed member, Bob Swinney. Bob loved Penfold’s wine and would often provide many of us with samples from his wine cellar or bring a bottle along to drink while the rest of us had wines that he considered lacked the body and concentration of his favourites.

Marking the 20th Anniversary of the Olympic Games in Sydney, member John Goldsborough brought along the torch from the leg he ran in the Olympic Torch Relay. Many of us had not seen one in real-life and it was a great opportunity for members to have their picture taken with it, as seen with James Healey in the above photo.

Wine

Tyrrell’s Belford Semillon 2017 - starting to show some development

Lindeman’s Bin 1155 Semillon 2011 - still fresh and bright. In very good condition.

The theme for today’s wine lunch was Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz. Of interest is that 1994 to 2012 covers the tenure of John Duval (who took over from Don Ditter in 1986) and Peter Gago (just the 4th maker of Grange) who’s first vintage was 2003.

The mixing of Cabernet and Shiraz is an Australian classic combing the structure of the former with the richness of the latter. Not sure if he was first, but Bin 389 was created by Max Schubert in 1960 and it’s often called “Baby Grange”, but more often “Poor Man’s Grange.” It carries a South Australian appellation and is drawn from the major SA viticultural regions. Most commonly Wrattonbully, Padthaway, McLaren Vale and the Barossa, but also Bordertown and Langhorne Creek, and occasionally Clare. Labelled Cabernet Shiraz, it must by law contain more Cabernet (generally Sauvignon) than Shiraz. While Shiraz can express itself well in all of the regions mentioned above, Cabernet is a little fickle - a bit Mother bear, needing not too hot, not too cold. Certainly, it’s more favoured by a maritime climate. It is generally aged in American oak (perhaps one-third new) and often second use Grange barrels - hence the nickname.

Obviously, Penfolds has enormous Shiraz resources, producing Grange Bin 95, RWT Bin 798, Magill Estate, St Henri, Bin 128, Bin 28, Bin 150, The Noble Explorer, Century Vines etc. etc. plus numerous special Bins. High-quality Cabernet resources are much thinner on the ground. Consequently, Bin 389 normally has on,y a little more Cabernet than Shiraz. It is interesting to look at the 6 vintages presented to see which variety shows through.

The 2012 (Cabernet 54%, Shiraz 46%) was the only one of the six wines closed with screw cap. It certainly was young, albeit a little reduced. There was a complexity of fruit, oak and tannin. Perhaps too much tannin at this stage. Penfolds is renowned for the addition of tannin to provide structure and mid-palate. The vintage is described by low yields and small berries. A lot of concentration here, but still closed (another use of the word).

The 2004 vintage, following on after the hot, dry 2003, was a large crop and, after a cool summer, was consequently a very late harvest. Today’s wine showed a certain elegance with some green Cabernet (53%) notes overtaken by rich, plum Shiraz (47%). Quite a lot of oak still sitting on the wine.

The 2002 wine (Cabernet 54%, Shiraz 46%) was from another cool and late vintage. Here the yield was low with smaller berries. It was more Cabernet focused than the previous two, with distinct blackcurrant, mint notes supported by some rich Shiraz fruit and astute oak use.

The 1998 vintage was one of the most highly regarded vintages of the nineties and often named as one of the great years. It was high yielding, but all varieties expressed wonderful fruit aromas. Cabernet was particularly esteemed. The Bin 389 showed characters of both varieties. Some minty Cabernet (58%) with plummy Shiraz (42%). However, it disappointed with its development and lack of depth. For many, the least liked of the six.

The 1996 assemblage is not identified on the Penfolds website, as for the 1994. This wine was more Shiraz than Cabernet with blackberry and cedar oak notes. The palate had great structure with complex fruits and an excellent tannin balance. One of the preferred wines.

The 1994 vintage was preceded by a cool summer resulting in a late vintage. Often this can produce rather green characters in Cabernet. In this Bin 389, these we’re certainly present but had softened to show hints of Bordeaux cassis. The Shiraz was much more in the background and tannins were fine-grained. Another favourite on the day.

For his birthday Frank Liebeskind brought a 2013 Cadillac sweet white for a member’s toast.

22 September 2020 - CoTD Greg Sproule

Food review by James Tinslay and wine review by Charles 'Chilly" Hargrave.

Greg Sproule a former Society Foodmaster, and a long-term member was in the kitchen today. He explained that this lunch was inspired by his first experience helping for a dinner party when he was 12 years old and it had a Russian theme.

Entree

There were two canapés served in the now-standard entrée format on a single plate at the table. These were firstly blinis with cured salmon, creme fraiche, fish roe and dill and then a classic Russian favourite "herring in a fur coat" being herring with potato, onion, mayonnaise, carrot, beetroot and egg.

To finish off the starters we had borscht comprising pork knuckle, beetroot, carrot, parsnips, potato, bay leaf and juniper.

Even the best of us on the tooth were struggling to finish the starters knowing that there was a main to finish. Both soup and the plated items received praise for their taste and complexity.

Main course

Carrying on the Russian theme Greg served us beef stroganoff a classic Russian dish but commonly served with many variations. I’m sure many of us can recall having beef stroganoff that came with overcooked hard lumps of beef and today’s example could not be more different. Greg had cooked the beef fillet for only three minutes, so it was medium rare and wonderfully tender to the fork. It was accompanied by cabbage, caraway, lemon and Salad Olivier (a traditional Russian potato salad), potato, dill, capers, peas, mayonnaise.

This was a wonderful interpretation of that Russian dish and cooked to perfection.

Cheese

James Healey served us arguably the king of French cheese with Roquefort the oldest traditional French blue cheese from Le Roi. This particular example was cultivated in the old-fashioned way on woodfired rye bread. This bread is dried and ground to a fine powder and then sprinkled on the young cheese curds. After maturation, the soft ivory textured cheeses vein with blue mould has a wonderfully mild and aromatic, savoury flavour.

Greg accompanied the cheese with a diverse selection of apple, honey, almonds, raspberries and blueberry.

Coffee

Our coffee was sourced by Nick from the Ona stable. Today’s was Guji from Ethiopia. The notes say it is an heirloom varietal with a raspberry note on the first sip that settles into a yellow peach note as the filter cools, accompanied by milk chocolate note and a hint of raw sugar on the finish. A good mid-strength coffee.

Greg finished off his description of the lunch by saying he went out for a “short” meal last night with a former President of the Society who shall not be named who apparently tried to nobble our chef’s performance in the kitchen today. He failed.

I recall Greg in his many escapades in the kitchen rarely had an assistant and today was no different. He provided us with lunch solo. Well done.

Wine

For today’s entrées, we had a pair of Chardonnays. It’s a very forgiving variety that can succeed in most regions, albeit with different levels of quality and expression.

The Bannockburn 1314 ad Chardonnay 2018 (so named in honour of the Battle of Bannockburn in 1314) was at the funky end of the style. Showing a lot of struck match, natural ferment characters, it was a rich, almost, fat wine with a very dry finish. Although also from western Victoria, the 2012 Seppelt Jaluka Chardonnay (from Henty) was at the finer end of the spectrum. A crisp, fresh style that eschews malolactic, it was still quite young and vigorous, although a little short on complexity.

The two Shiraz with the main course were a curious pair. The 2012 Laurent Combier Crozes Hermitage was quite flat in the glass. Although it did show some spice after time, it never fully came to life. As is often the case in the Rhône, the tannins were rather tough. The 2013 Hewitson The Mother Vine Barossa Shiraz 2013 is drawn from a vineyard planted using cuttings from a single vine planted in 1853 which was chosen because of its complexity and flavour and structure. Perhaps in the same mould as the Crozes, although certainly in the tradition of the Barossa, it was a big oaky wine with black fruits and chocolate and then blockbuster tannins.

A classic, traditional pairing with Roquefort is a Sauternes. Today’s wine was from the other side of the Garonne in the Entre Deux Mers. The commune of Sainte-Croix-du-Mont sits opposite Barsac and is renowned for producing quality sweet whites at value. The 2011 Château La Rame was an excellent example of the style. Rich and luscious, it had all the apricot and spice of the wines over the river.

Continuing a theme from last week we had another one of Wynns Coonawarra reds. The 2009 Cabernet Shiraz Merlot (affectionately known as the Red Stripe) was well poised with still time ahead of it. The vintage was late and allowed the development of fine flavours and tannins. The Cabernet notes were cassis and plum, the Shiraz was all pepper and spice, while the Merlot helped pull the palate together.

15 September 2020 - CoTD Bill Alexiou-Hucker

Food review by James Hill and wine review by Chilly Hargrave.

Our Foodmaster, Bill Alexiou-Hucker, was in the kitchen today assisted by Steve Sparkes and they provided bountiful Greek fare.

Entree

First up, after we had taken our seats, we were served a classic mezze plate of Greek canapés.

Taramasalata on toast with a little octopus tucked in the tarama.

• Dolmades with tzatziki, the tzatziki was made with yoghurt, mint and lemon juice.
• Cheese triangle of feta and pecorino
• Pork neck souvlakia with hummus and Greek salad salsa on pitta

Peter Manners praised the quality of canapés being presented at lunches and said today was no exception.

Main course

We were promised octopus cooked three ways, we had:

• Octopus braised in tomato and olives on eggplant,
• Pickled octopus with fennel,
• BBQ octopus on skordalia.
• Fries dusted with oregano. Who doesn’t like fries?

The writer cannot remember the last time we had fries served at a society lunch.

The dish attracted praise for taste, texture and presentation showing the versatility of octopus which capped off this triumphal trio from Bill.

Bill advised that some of the best souvlakia meat can be purchased from Souvlaki Boys in Marrickville.

Cheese

The cheese had members guessing what animal/origin. Most thought it was European.

The cheese today was a Society favourite Berry’s Creek Gourmet Cheese Tarwin Blue. Barry Charlton specialises in blue cheese. His purpose-built factory in South Gippsland overlooks Wilson’s Promontory and it’s there that Barry uses the milk from a few local dairy farms to handcraft his wheels of blue.

Taking its name from the local river, this cheese is inoculated with a combination of three strains of starter cultures and one of blue mould spores. After maturation in a small room next to the dairy for a minimum of two months, the rich buttery texture becomes interspersed with dark blue veins and develops a distinct creamy blue finish.

Today we saw a great example of this blue cheese served at optimal temperature and condition. It was simply served with dried figs poached in orange and ouzo syrup. Comments suggested this was one if the best cheese accompaniments we have seen.

Coffee

Our coffee was sourced by Nick from the Ona stable ‘El Salvador’ a blend of carbonic maceration lots and is characterised by notes of marmalade, peach, red apple and a hint of toffee.

John Goldsbrough closed the lunch saying it was most appropriate we had a Greek chef and meal today being the 20th anniversary of the Sydney Olympics and reminisced about his time carrying the Olympic flame in Palm Cove Queensland.

Wine

Today’s lunch saw three pairings of a Riesling, a Semillon and a Cabernet Sauvignon.

The first were vintages 2015 and 2017 of the Peglidis Riesling from Wines by KT. As expected, being from a great vintage, the older wine showed more defined fruit than the younger. Whereas the 2017 was looking a little flat, the 2015 was fresh and lively, full of lemon/lime notes with a real acid finish.

A pair of Andrew Thomas Braemore Semillons were the wines poured for the main course. Again the older wine was better on the day. The 2017 seemed to lack the zip and vigour we have come to expect from this wine. Surprisingly the colour on this and the accompanying 2011 wine was quite similar, perhaps suggesting the 2017 was ageing faster than expected. Of course, 2011 was a great Hunter vintage, and the Thomas wine did not disappoint. It still showed clear, bright citrus fruit notes with the recognisable toast of development just starting to show through.

A couple of vintages of the Wynns Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon were matched to the cheese. A Society favourite, both the 2012 and 2008 vintages showed a wonderful expression of the variety and the region. The 2012 was low yielding because of bad spring weather at flowering. This resulted in small berries with a lot of concentration and fruit flavour. The tannins were similarly concentrated and firm. The 2008 vintage saw a more traditional yield, although fruit ripened early after a hot summer. This wine had the Coonawarra mint and cassis with excellent fine-grained tannins. Preferred by most members on the day.

8 September 2020 - CoTD Bernard Leung

Food review by James Tinslay and wine review by Chilly Hargrave

Food

Bernard Leung was in the kitchen today as a first-time Chef of The Day for our Society. He was assisted by Steve Liebeskind.

We started with a stunning looking pea and ham soup which Bernard had based on a Heston Blumenthal recipe. The basis of the soup was a six-hour slow-cooked ham hock stock which had a noticeable depth of flavour to this starter. The soup was topped with shredded ham hock. It looked good and tasted good.

This was followed by lamb shank which had been sou vide medium-rare at 62°C for 40 hours. Whilst the meat came off the bone beautifully, it was not the messy “falling off” effect you often get with oven slow cooking. The stock was based on beef bones and then combined with reduced red wine. The meat was accompanied by parsnip crisps (which were delectable) and broccoli set on mash. There were a couple of comments from the very satisfied attendees that it was good to have a good quantity of sauce so that it could be enjoyed until the last of the meal was eaten. Over the past few years, there have been numerous comments that the meal was good, but more sauce was needed. Well done Bernard.

Our Cheesemaster was on a NSW road trip but selected and organised the cheese which was a favourite, Ossau Iraty. This French Basque country cheese is generally aged from 80 to 120 days and is sheep’s milk. The importer in this case was one of our regular suppliers, Will Studd. Whilst this cheese is described a semihard ours was a little more on the hard side but had developed intense flavour due to the slightly mature age. It is often described as fruity, herbaceous and nutty. Today’s cheese was a fine example of the style. It was accompanied by a simple salad.

Coffee was from ONA by the President and was washed Guatemala El Socorro. It is described as having aromas of green apple and caramel accompanied by hazelnut-like notes and a persimmon quality on the finish. 

I am sure that our Foodmaster will ensure that Bernard has another lunch lined up for 2021.

Wine

We started with a couple of Chardonnays for the entrée course. The first from Georges Lignier was a 2017 Marsannay Blanc. It’s not a renowned appellation for Chardonnay as it is at the northern end on the Côte de Nuits, almost into the suburbs of Dijon. The wine was still young but lacked the intensity and tension seen in the Côte de Beaune Chardonnays. Perhaps a little too much oak and not enough texture at this stage.

The Chardonnay that followed was a 2017 Domaine Etienne Boileau Chablis 1er Cru Montmains. Most thought the classic Chablis structure of a well-balanced acid structure was superior to the Marsannay. The stony mineral backdrop. with a dry refreshing finish with a crisp acidity was superb.

With the duck (and cheese) we had 6 red burgundies from 2 producers. The first 3 were a mini bracket of 2009 vintage Remoissenets. To start, a village Gevrey-Chambertin showed bright cherry fruit though perhaps lacking in depth and texture. Its tannins had softened with time and was very approachable. The Pommard 1er Cru “Les Arvelets” was in great condition. This site is up above the village with some of the steepest slopes of the commune. It was a wine of great elegance, but with some of the famous Pommard power and tannin of the wines from the deeper soils to the south. The third wine was the first of four Grand Cru, this one from the Corton vineyard of “Les Renardes” towards the top of the slope on the northern border of the commune of Aloxe Corton. The wine was quite delicious. It had great intensity with beautifully expressed red fruits. A slightly robust wine with length, balance and complexity.

Next followed three Grand Cru red burgundies from Domaine Lupé-Cholet. The 2003 Clos Vougeot was a little disappointing. This climat is about 50 ha with a great diversity of soil, aspect and drainage. It is the largest single grand cru vineyard in burgundy and is probably drawn into this one Cru by the wall built around it in the 14th century by the Cistercian monks. They lost control soon after the revolution in the early 1800s which the church estates were all sold. It now has about 80 different owners. The best parts are in the south-west corner at the top of the hill near the great Échezeaux vineyards. The bottom third of the vineyard is in low lying ground below the level of the N74. Of interest is that majority of the vineyards in this line to the north and south are only classified as village. The Lupé-Cholet vineyards are on some of the flatter ground at the southern end. The 2003 harvest was memorable because of the heat of August and probably shows some impact of this weather extreme. It was a little jammy in its fruit profile, quite oaky and with very soft tannins to finish.

The two Gevrey-Chambertin Grand Cru wines that followed were both exceptional in their own way. The Charmes-Chambertin vineyard sits directly to the south of its more famous neighbours of Chambertin and Clos de Bèze. This 2002 wine was from a great vintage and showed beautiful Pinot Noir perfume with a subtle and astute overlay of oak. On the palate, there was a wonderful mouthfeel and length with surprisingly soft tannins. The 1999 Latricières-Chambertin (the next one south from Charmes) was a bit of a sleeper. It was poured last on the suspicion that it might fall over. However, after a slight dip, it continued to open throughout the afternoon. From a slightly hot and low acid vintage, the wine showed a glorious fruit expression of ripe berries with a fine flavour that lingered long in the mouth. It was full-bodied and textured with depth and energy at its core and structuring tannins. Although the Latricières-Chambertin is one of the smaller and lesser-known of the Grand Crus, it certainly was the standout of the four.

Another great day enhanced by the extraction of 18 corks with no TCA.

1 September 2020 - CoTD Peter Manners

Food review by Nick Reynolds and wine review by Chilly Hargrave

Food

Are you 95?

It’s not a question you hear often but it was asked of our chef of the day. His reply: add one.

On Tuesday we had the honour of having our lunch prepared by the society’s second oldest member, World War Two Veteran Peter Manners.

And what a lunch it was.

Peter has been watching all the new styles of cooking and different nationalities of the dishes prepared and decided to go back to good old basics from his English heritage.

Today we were served one of the best Roast beef with Yorkshire pudding meals that I have ever had. On my early arrival, Peter was wandering around wondering what to do because everything had been prepared and was ready to go. The pieces of beef looked fantastic before cooking and were even better when cooked to a perfect level of doneness. The Yorkshire pudding was crisp and light and the gravy, a perfect accompaniment although a number felt that there wasn’t enough. Accompanying vegetables were potato, beetroot, and brussels sprouts. The latter vegetable was perfectly prepared according to those who sampled them but some of us were not up to what can be a challenging for some cruciferous vegetable. Peter told us that its use was seasonal in the UK, with it appearing when available but replaced by green beans when it wasn’t.

The meal was substantial on meat (a Society preference), perfectly prepared and presented, extremely tasty, and acclaimed by all commentators.

A number of diners asked where Peter had sourced the meat. His answer was Coles Balgowlah but being Peter, he gave us the full story that he had been talking to the butcher there for a number of weeks leading up to the final purchase and the butcher had taken a close personal interest in sourcing the best meat for Peter. He succeeded.

Leading into the meal, we had the first appearance in the kitchen by Steve Sparkes since he became a member. The appetisers all involved fish and were sufficiently challenging to our palates for some to voice that they preferred some over others. Notably, however, everyone found at least one that they savoured.  Steve presented smoked rainbow trout with ginger on melba toast, which was perfectly curled and extremely well seasoned. A second appetiser, which challenged a few, was a heated button mushroom with crab and cream cheese filling seasoned with salt, pepper and a pinch of cayenne. Some didn’t like the texture of the mushroom but if you were familiar with and like textural Chinese food, it was very enjoyable. The last appetiser was a wonton wrapper baked as a pastry shell with sashimi-grade tuna, Asian condiments, sesame seed, and a touch of chili.

The quality of the appetisers and their visual appeal was commented on very favourably and we look forward to seeing what Steve produces when he is the Chef of the Day next month.

In theme with the British main course, we were presented with Quicke’s Cheddar. The Quicke family have produced this cheese for almost five hundred years and their expertise shows. A perfect cheddar came to the table with a good crumbly texture and strong flavour. Peter accompanied it with sultanas, unsalted cashews and an iceberg lettuce leaf.

The coffee, which came from Ona Marrickville, was an El Salvador Himalaya coffee, which the roaster called “Supersonic.” The special natural processed coffee has a powerful flavour profile, ranging from red cherry and raisin to hibiscus and dark chocolate.

Wine

A pair of Chardonnays were in the table today to accompany our entree. Both could be described as newer style as they showed the recognisable flint, struck match notes of wild (natural) fermentation. The 2017 Collector Wines Tiger Tiger Chardonnay from Tumbarumba was a very elegant, refined style. It showed good minerality with grapefruit characters and excellent length. The 2017 Tapanappa Piccadilly Valley Chardonnay on the other was quite big with fruit more in the peach/melon spectrum and a rather sharp acidity pulling up the finish.

Two Cabernet-based wines were served with the main course. From Margaret River and Coonawarra, both were still in very good condition with their regional characters to the fore. The 2007 Devil’s Lair Cabernet (81%)/Merlot (19%) was still young and bright with aromas of red currant and cedar oak. The palate was quite vigorous with red and black fruits finished by dry, grainy Cabernet tannins. The 2002 Zema Estate Cabernet had again retained freshness, although it might have presented better under screw cap. This time fruit aromas were more chocolate and mint and again complemented with quality oak. Starting to show its age on the palate the flavours were complex with soft tannins.

Cheese wines were another pair, this time Tyrrells Vat 9 Shiraz. Both showed amazing colour and clarity with no hints of browning. The 2011 was a little reduced which tended to suppress the fruit and leave a certain hardness on the finish. Still a very young wine. The 2007 was obviously more evolved and softer. Perhaps a little green with some reduction and softening tannins. More approachable and peaking.

25 August 2020- CoTD Paul Thorne

Food review by James Hill and wine review by Chilly Hargrave

Food

We welcomed Paul Thorne back to the kitchen as chef of the day for our wine tasting lunch. He was assisted by James Hill.

Entrees/starters

Still in COVID mode members were seated to enjoy today’s starters.

First served was a plate consisting of salmon rillette and taramasalata.

The salmon rillette is a Philippe Mouchel recipe where a salmon fillet is cooked for 15 minutes then mixed with an equal amount of diced smoked salmon then lemon juice, dill and cream added and then left to marinate overnight. It is served with chervil.

A good complex flavoursome entree matched on the plate with a portion of taramasalata topped with Avruga caviar. The tarama was a good contrast to the rich smoky oily of the rillette with a strong lemon taste. The tarama is made with sourdough breadcrumbs and, as a side, the crust was baked in the oven and served with our entree.

Paul’s renowned for his consommé and today he didn’t disappoint it was a clear duck consommé a smidge of orange zest and a quail egg for good measure. The good robust flavour of duck was enhanced by the zest and then a mouthful of quail egg to further enjoy.

Main

Paul nominated duck as to match our Burgundian wine theme.

Duck Maryland was cooked ‘sous vide’ then seared on the hot plate in the kitchen rested then kept warm in the oven.

It was well cooked pink, moist and full of flavour and accompanied by some duck fat roasted kipfler potatoes. We normally see duck Maryland cooked confit it was good to try this variation.

We also had compote of tomato, eggplant and baby peppers roasted in olive oil to counter the acid of the tomatoes Paul added some dates and black currants. A good well-balanced flavoursome dish that could stand alone.

The duck sat on a mash of carrot and cauliflower, the art world talks of colour and movement and we saw this on the plate today. Frank suggested the mash was there to stop the duck from walking away!

Cheese

Our Cheesemaster, James Healey, on theme, presented La Couronne du Comte AOP, an unpasteurised milk cheese matured in the damp underground cellars of Marcel Petite at Fort Saint Antoine high in the mountains that border France and Switzerland in the Franche-Comte region. It has a rich concentrated nutty texture elegant, caramel sweetness and lingering flavour.

The cheese was accompanied by a half Packham pear and some Californian dates. A good match.

Coffee

Our coffee was sourced by Nick from the Ona stable, a Roasters Selection Castillo is a blend of Colombian Castillo and is packed full of fruit. On the first sip, you notice notes of orange and mixed berries and as the brew cools down these fruit notes are accompanied by a praline like sweetness.

Wine

For today’s wine lunch the cook of the day said “duck” and the wine master said Burgundy. So, we started with a couple of Chardonnays for the entrée course. The first from Georges Lignier was a 2017 Marsannay Blanc. It’s not a renowned appellation for Chardonnay as it is at the northern end on the Côte de Nuits, almost into the suburbs of Dijon. The wine was still young but lacked the intensity and tension seen in the Côte de Beaune Chardonnays. Perhaps a little too much oak and not enough texture at this stage.

The Chardonnay that followed was a 2010 Chablis 1er Cru ‘Fourchaume’ from Domaine Nathalie et Gilles Fèvre. Not to be confused with the renowned and large Domaine William Fèvre, they still have significant vineyard holdings and family history in the region. The 2010 vintage was difficult in Chablis (the first of many to come in the decade) with a miserable spring and cool summer. The low yields allowed fruit ripeness, but harvest was not until late September, early October. Today’s wine was still fresh and lively. It is the only premier Cru wine that the domaine does not put in oak and this has helped this wine age gracefully. Nonetheless, the fruit aromas and flavours were showing some development with a hint of “apricot” botrytis - not uncommon in Chablis.

With the duck (and cheese) we had 6 red burgundies from 2 producers. The first 3 were a mini bracket of 2009 vintage Remoissenets. To start, a village Gevrey-Chambertin showed bright cherry fruit though perhaps lacking in depth and texture. Its tannins had softened with time and was very approachable. The Pommard 1er Cru “Les Arvelets” was in great condition. This site is up above the village with some of the steepest slopes of the commune. It was a wine of great elegance, but with some of the famous Pommard power and tannin of the wines from the deeper soils to the south. The third wine was the first of four Grand Cru, this one from the Corton vineyard of “Les Renardes” towards the top of the slope on the northern border of the commune of Aloxe Corton. The wine was quite delicious. It had great intensity with beautifully expressed red fruits. A slightly robust wine with length, balance and complexity.

Next followed three Grand Cru red burgundies from Domaine Lupé-Cholet. The 2003 Clos Vougeot was a little disappointing. This climat is about 50 ha with a great diversity of soil, aspect and drainage. It is the largest single grand cru vineyard in burgundy and is probably drawn into this one Cru by the wall built around it in the 14th century by the Cistercian monks. They lost control soon after the revolution in the early 1800s which the church estates were all sold. It now has about 80 different owners. The best parts are in the south-west corner at the top of the hill near the great Échezeaux vineyards. The bottom third of the vineyard is in low lying ground below the level of the N74. Of interest is that majority of the vineyards in this line to the north and south are only classified as village. The Lupé-Cholet vineyards are on some of the flatter ground at the southern end. The 2003 harvest was memorable because of the heat of August and probably shows some impact of this weather extreme. It was a little jammy in its fruit profile, quite oaky and with very soft tannins to finish.

The two Gevrey-Chambertin Grand Cru wines that followed were both exceptional in their own way. The Charmes-Chambertin vineyard sits directly to the south of its more famous neighbours of Chambertin and Clos de Bèze. This 2002 wine was from a great vintage and showed beautiful Pinot Noir perfume with a subtle and astute overlay of oak. On the palate, there was a wonderful mouthfeel and length with surprisingly soft tannins. The 1999 Latricières-Chambertin (the next one south from Charmes) was a bit of a sleeper. It was poured last on the suspicion that it might fall over. However, after a slight dip, it continued to open throughout the afternoon. From a slightly hot and low acid vintage, the wine showed a glorious fruit expression of ripe berries with a fine flavour that lingered long in the mouth. It was full-bodied and textured with depth and energy at its core and structuring tannins. Although the Latricières-Chambertin is one of the smaller and lesser-known of the Grand Crus, it certainly was the standout of the four.

Another great day enhanced by the extraction of 18 corks with no TCA.

18 August 2020 CoTD Hal Epstein

Food review by James Tinslay and wine review by Chilly Hargrave

Food

In what was probably a unique successive pair of lunches, our Chef of the Day this week, Hal Epstein, prepared the lunch but was unable to attend in person, except very briefly to be with the Foodmaster in the kitchen to explain the meal. [It was Gary Patterson last week who found himself in similar circumstances.] After that Bill Alexiou-Hucker took over the duties of the day.

Being seated complying with our pandemic provisions we were served two filo pastry pieces or ‘cheese twirls’ on our plates. The first had flavours of Middle Eastern spices and turned out to be cumin, while the second one was a surprise as Hal had used Vegemite as the flavouring agent. Both were very tasty and went with the dry Italian whites selected by our Winemaster.

The main course was a boon for the lovers of tripe and as we found out during the booking period many cannot face that particular piece of meat. There was a good representation from the tripe club attending lunch. Some members had not recently eaten tripe having had their mothers tripe meals many decades ago curb any interest.

Osteria Oggi is a hatted restaurant in Adelaide that is lauded for creative, produce-driven food and Hal reproduced one of their classic dishes which has also been featured on the SBS cooking program The Chef’s Line, tripe with fennel and tomatoes

The tripe had a great texture which absorbed and carried the flavours of the ingredients. The comments were very complimentary even from non-tripe eaters.

The cheese presented today by James Healey was a new one for many of us, L’Amuse Brabander. The cheese was almost porcelain white and was, James explained, a goats milk Gouda but a lesser-known variety made near Amsterdam since the early 1800s. The cheese was very flavoursome and maintained a degree of moisture but there was still some form of crunch on the palate. A most unusual Gouda.

The cheese was accompanied by quince paste and homemade (by Hal) marinated kumquats served on a tiny skewer. A classy match.

Coffee was sourced by the President, once again from the ONA stable. This selection was named The Hitman and it had a higher roast than in previous weeks. It is described as “a bold, full-bodied comfort coffee flavours of caramel, malt, nut and spices.”

A happy bunch of members left lunch.

Wine

Today’s entrée wines started the theme of Italian varietals. A bright, fresh 2018 Bisci Verdicchio was new to many of the members. Perhaps Riesling like in its citrus notes, it had a texture more identified with Pinot Gris. This was paired with a 2017 Scorpo Pinot Grigio from the Mornington Peninsula. Australia’s best-known region for the variety, it was made in a very different style to most from the area. Fermented on skins and aged on lees, it had some colour, phenolics and oily texture. An excellent example of the hipster style.

A pair of exciting Tuscan reds accompanied the exciting main course. First, a 2012 Isole e Olena Cepparello interestingly closed under screwcap. Formed in the early 1950s on the purchase of the adjoining Isole and Olena vineyards but the De Marche family. A 100% Sangiovese wine, when first produced it was required to be labelled an IGT because at that time Chianti was required to contain 10% to 30% Malvasia and Trebbiano. While the DOCG laws have changed Cepparello is still labelled IGT. It showed a wonderful savoury, cherry aroma with a rich, but elegant palate finishing quite firm. A delightful wine.

The 2009 Antinori Pian delle Vigne Brunello di Montalcino expressed a very different style of Sangiovese. Originally the red variety around Montalcino was labelled Brunello. Later ampelographical work has shown it to be Sangiovese Grosso. The locals, however, continue to call it Brunello. The DOCG requirement for this wine demands 100% Sangiovese, ageing in oak for a minimum of 2 years and then 4 months in bottle before release. The Pian delle Vigne is a large vineyard acquired by the Antinori family in 1995, so this is a wine with not a lot of history. Nonetheless, it is one of the best-regarded of the Brunellos. Antinori has wisely chosen to age their wine in large oak. This avoids the overdeveloped characters seen in many from the region and a, loss the fruit to shine through. This was from a hot year, so shows a lot of ripe notes yet very soft tannins. The room was split half and over these 2 excellent reds. Some preferring the softness of the latter while others leaned to the fruit drive of the former.

The cheese wines were a pair of Tyrrell’s 4 Acres Shiraz. This vineyard was planted by Edward Tyrrell in 1879 and is one of the company’s nominated sacred sites. They note that “these vines are some of the oldest and rarest not only in Australia but also the world, all because the Hunter Valley never had phylloxera.” The wines are generally aged in large vat to preserve the aromatics. Today’s vintages tasted were 2005, which showed a little fruit development and some hard tannins, and 2011 which was still too young and consequently a little firm.

11 August 2020 CoTD Gary Patterson

Food review by Nick Reynolds and wine review by Charles "Chilly" Hargrave

Food

One thing that can be said about our Chefs of the Day is their dedication to providing meals for their fellow members.

Today Gary Patterson cooked and delivered the food to the Royal Exchange Club, despite being unable to attend himself.

Meals cooked by Gary are always an adventure and today’s lunch was no exception.

Because Gary wasn’t at the lunch, cooking and plating were undertaken by the Royal Exchange Club’s chef, Leo Rachid. He was ably assisted by two members who we don’t normally associate with the kitchen, Paul Panichi and James Healey. After today’s performance, we certainly hope to see them back in the kitchen.

Gary’s entrée was billed as a crab cake. After inspecting the product, Leo worked his chef magic on it presenting us with a crab and potato mornay served over rocket and topped with salmon roe.

Although not a crab cake, it was enjoyed by members who commented favourably on the dish.

The main dish was advertised as a Cassoulet and although it had all the elements of a Cassoulet, it presented differently from our normal experience of that dish. The duck that Gary acquired for the meal came from a Marrickville restaurant popular with a number of members, BBQ Prince. Typical of Chinese duck, it was redolent with five-spice, which added an unusual note to this French dish. In his comments on the dish, James Hill called it “Hong Kong Cassoulet,” which was probably an accurate assessment.

The duck was accompanied by extremely flavourful Toulouse sausages, which normally don’t have five-spice but somehow the star anise had penetrated them during the cook.  The dish was accompanied by perfectly cooked Dutch Carrots and an interesting toasted bread crumb which added texture to the dish. Although texture was probably not needed as the beans were masterfully soaked but not cooked sufficiently. They gave the general impression of eating raw unroasted peanuts, again fitting perfectly the emergent Chinese theme of the meal.

James Healey is actively working to present Australian cheese during the COVID-19 lockdown and today he presented us with a cheese called Fermier, which is made in Mortlake Victoria by the producer L’Artisan. The maker is Matthieu Megard, a third-generation cheesemaker, who grew up in the French Alps and after moving to Australia set up his own dairy and cheesery with the aim of sharing the cheeses of his childhood with Australians. The cheese is a semi-hardened, smear-ripened cow’s milk cheese reminiscent of the classic Morbier cheeses of Jura with their ash layer in the centre.

The cheese was nutty in flavour with a smoky finish and was mistaken by a number of members as being European in origin with the ash being misinterpreted as being a blue mould.

Today’s coffee came once again from Ona Coffee, Marrickville. From El Salvadorean beans, the Filter Coffee was called Divisadero, Honey. The ‘Super Honey’ beans from Ataco, El Salvador when roasted had notes of malt, chocolate truffle, and a hint of cacao. The roaster presented it as a Mars Bar in filter coffee form.

The day was enjoyed by all and the President closed the lunch with the suggestion that people maintain social distance on their way home, not only because of our current circumstances but also due to the aromatic effects that beans such as those eaten today can have.

Wine

Today’s entrée was matched with a pair of 2013 Rieslings. Drawn from SA’s best two regions for the variety, the differences didn’t stop there. They represented two very diverse approaches to the winemaking. The Pewsey Vale from Yalumba was in a bigger style, showing fresh acidity and a depth and mouthfeel derived from natural fermentation. The Jim Barry from their Lodge Hill vineyards was much more restrained. It still showed pure citrus fruit with a zippy acidity. Probably won’t improve much over time as it develops more buttered toast characters.

The pair of 2010 Shiraz were again in a very different mould. The Kiss Shiraz from Andrew Thomas still showed obvious cedary oak with bright red berry fruit. The palate was beautifully weighted with a certain mineral element. The tannins on the palate we’re a little hard on the finish. Still a young wine and an excellent example from a difficult vintage. The No. 1 Shiraz can be traced back to the first Saltram vintage in 1862. From a very good year, it showed very much in the TWE house style with a perfect harmony of fruit, oak and tannin. Another wine that will accept more time in bottle, although it perhaps lacked energy and a little boring.

With the cheese came more Shiraz, but this time with more age. First was a 2001 Vasse Felix Shiraz. This was drawn from their Wilyabrup vineyard. The Shiraz vines are the oldest in Margaret River, having been planted in 1967. Although under crumbling corks, it surprised by its freshness and recognisable varietal bouquet. Still showing oak and tannin, it was an excellent example of the keeping qualities of the region.

The final wine for the day was a 1993 St Hallett Old Block Shiraz. A wine that was first produced in the early 1980s, it was originally drawn from a very old block near the winery. It must be said that just because vines are extremely old, they don’t necessarily make the best wine. St Hallett resolved such was the case with Old Block. Although still sourced from old vines, it no longer comes from the original block. Instead, fruit is from vineyards in both Eden Valley and Barossa Valley. Again lousy corks and again the wine was holding together. Past its best, but still bright and certainly on style. A few rancio oak notes and the recognisable ripe Barossa fruit.