2 September 2025 Bill A-H

26 August 2025 Leigh Hall

Food review by Frank Liebeskind and wine review by Stephen O'Halloran

Food

What a pleasure it is to write the review for Leigh’s fantastic lunch. Merv Peacock and Nigel Burton assisted Leigh in the canape preparation and plating the main.

Leigh prepared flavour bombs today. And a meal worthy of CoTY Cook-off.

Lots of positive feedback from the members, all relished tasting venison again.

Canapes

Leigh did three canapes, the first a tapenade on a cracker, topped with a jalapeno slice and half a black olive, I loved it, and certainly not bland.

Next came guacamole on a corn chip, topped with smoked salmon, pickled red onion and black roe, a crazy combo that really worked, again a flavour bomb.

The third canape was venison sausage (two versions), a home-made fallow deer version and a purchased red deer version. Both topped with eggplant chutney and cornichon. And didn’t it leave a long and delightful taste in the mouth.

All three flavour bombs were well received and I loved them all.

We really need a CoTY prize for canapes, lots of effort and thought (and I’m sure testing), went into these three canapes.

Main

Leigh marinated the (45+) pieces of wild harvested venison in red wine, oil and herbs (lots of rosemary) for over 24 hours, the venison was seared to medium, I was lucky mine med/rare.

Venison was sourced from Alpine Game Meats.

The venison was presented on mashed potato, with crispy perfect green beans drizzled with blue cheese and carrots perfectly done, drizzled with honey. And garnished with thyme.

If the venison wasn’t the hero, certainly the stock reduced to an amazing sauce was the hero. 10kg of bone marrow was placed on the outside BBQ and cooked and reduced with cabernet for 48 hours, then cranberries added for sweetness. Just brilliant, and copious quantities of bread were well used to soak up the sauce, and most plates went back clean as….

Cheese

Leigh accompanied the cheese with sliced apple and sliced pears, and dried apricots and dried figs. The apple and pear balanced off a beautiful French blue.

A beautiful rich salty blue, that was very well received and identified by Paul Dressler.

We had, Bleu d ’Auvergne PDO 2.6kg  wheel.

This PDO cow’s milk cheese has been made in the Auvergne region for several centuries, traditionally matured in mountain caves where the unique blue mould flora flourished. Although no longer cave ripened, PDO regulations still stipulate that cheese must be produced at a minimum 500m altitude, in specific geographical regions and using milk only from cows born in the region. Each whole cheese is foil wrapped to prevent the rind forming and after 3 months maturation, an even spread of steely blue veins spreads through the body of the cheese. Mature cheeses have a moist and slightly crumbly texture with a tart and salty flavour.www.calendarcheese.com.au

Wine

A large turnout, 46 or so gathered for a much anticipated meal of venison presented by Leigh Hall. The lunch was a tremendous success, with all the servings of meat being perfectly cooked. A great effort by Leigh and the REX Kitchen Team. We are so lucky to have Amosh and his team in the kitchen. Read the food report for all details.

With regard to the wines, we were treated to an excellent line-up of modern Grenache assembled by our Winemaster Nick Reynolds. Nick brought together a range of Grenache from vintages that spanned from 2007 to 2023. I may be mistaken, but I think this is the first vertical tasting of Grenache we have done in the Society. All part of our Charter of wine education for our members. 

To begin at the beginning, which is always a good place to start, the history of Grenache in Australia is interesting, and reflective of the changing attitudes to wine over a long period of time and to improvements in wine making practices. Grenache is an important grape worldwide, with its history commencing in either Sardinia or Spain. Today, there are huge amounts of the vine grown in France and Spain and elsewhere.  The grape arrived in Australia in the late 1800s and was widely planted in the warm, dry regions of SA, where it flourished, so much so that it soon became the dominant red wine produced in Australia in terms of output, only overtaken by Shiraz in the 1960s. Until fairly recently, Grenache was mostly used to produce low cost, bulk red wine, fortified wines or as a wine to blend with Shiraz and Mourvèdre, the classic GSM. 

It would be a fair comment to say that until, say, the last 20 years, Grenache was treated with disdain by some of our great wine makers of the past, who regarded it virtually as a weed, and a very poor relative of the more illustrious Shiraz and Cabernet grape varieties. These great old winemakers would be spinning in their graves to learn that a Grenache recently won in August 2025, the James Halliday Trophy for the best red wine with the Thistledown Charming Man Grenache 2024. What, one may ask, is going on here? Were there no Shiraz or Cabernet wines entered?  Now I am aware of the worldwide trend to drink less heavy red wine and to prefer lighter styles, but let's get a grip here, a Grenache the top red wine of the year, "tell 'em they're dreaming!"

Anyhow, leaving that history aside, I now turn my attention to today's wines. Keen followers of my weekly notes will be aware that when dealing with 5 or 6 wines of the same grape, I will not analyse them individually; that is a bridge too far for me, as I run out of interesting things to say after two bottles. So you will get the broadbrush approach to our wines today.  For the canapes, we had a Willunga 2024 Grenache Blanc @ 13%. I liked it. Fresh, unusual, clear and bright with good fruit and a nice crisp finish. So far, all good. We then moved to the bracket of six Grenache reds, which varied in colour from light cherry red (the Willunga 100) to the dark red, inky blackness of the Swinney and the Clarendon Hills. The wines were all high in alcohol, 14 to 15%, and all had that classic Grenache combination of light to medium texture, raspberry and spice, tannin and high acid. 

I found it hard to select a favourite, but I think the Sardinian wine got my vote, the Sardegna. Enough alcohol to start a fire 15%, I found the wine most enjoyable, medium to full texture, strong flavours, rich red fruits, spicy and juicy. Despite the high alcohol, I thought the wine was still in balance and finished with a warm, dry aftertaste.  Second place for me was the Willunga 100 2023 @ 14.5%. Probably the lightest in colour of the group, I thought the wine full of flavours of cherry, strawberry and red currant. Tangy and vibrant, it was nonetheless quite elegant and in good balance. My third place getter was the Clarendon Hills 2010, a complex wine, full of dark fruit flavours with noticeable oak treatment. Perhaps slightly out of balance due to the high alcohol?? 14.5%

Probably drinking well past its prime, but still enjoyable in a diminished capacity. Many thanks to our Winemaster for collating this wide-ranging selection of Grenache that has reinvented itself. 

19 August 2025 Julian Parmegiani

Food review by James Hill and wine review by Stephen O'Halloran

Food

Our chef of the day was Julian Parmegiani, second time in the kitchen, assisted by Rob Guthrie.

Canapés

Our president, Stephen O’Halloran, prepared the first canapé, goat’s cheese with piquillo peppers on an oven-baked baguette.

Good to see Norbert Wynzenbeek assisting with canapés today.

Chicken scrolls stuffed with prunes, then warmed lamb croquettes with a dipping sauce of plum sauce, fresh coriander, and light soy sauce. The croquette was made with lamb mince, egg, onions, carrots, fresh (homegrown) coriander, onion juice, fresh ginger, soy sauce, and breadcrumbs.

Main

Our main today was lamb shanks with a cauliflower purée and a salad composée.

The lamb shanks were braised with a soffritto, tomato paste, tomatoes, chicken stock, and lots of wine!

The meat fell off the bone, tender and moist, lovely, rich flavour of lamb, some suggesting it may have been hogget. A little delay in serving today. Julian wanted the sauce reduced to give a well-bodied consistency, which was perfect.

The cauliflower purée was made with garlic, butter, crème fraîche, and Parmesan cheese. The salad was composed with cos lettuce, asparagus, red pepper, sugar snaps, and green peas with a citrus dressing. It was a good contrast to the richness of the shank and purée.

A perfect meal on a cold, rainy day, much appreciated and commented on by members attending.

Thanks team!

Hogget refers to a sheep between one and two years old. It's a meat classification between lamb and mutton, with a flavour profile that is richer than lamb but milder than mutton. Hogget is known for its well-developed flavour and tenderness.

Bread was a sourdough rye from Organic Bread Bar Paddington.

Cheese

Our cheese master, Mark Bradford, presented a ‘buffalo glera’, a hard buffalo milk cheese from Italy, which we believe is the first time we’ve seen this cheese. A tasty and interesting cheese.

An ubriacatura or drunken cheese, this semi-hard buffalo milk cheese is a tribute to the region. Latteria Perenzin is located at the foot of the Prosecco hills in Veneto, a UNESCO World Heritage site, and the Glera grape is the predominant variety that must be used in the production of DOCG Prosecco.

Local buffalo milk sourced from the Veneto region is used to make this natural rinded pressed curd cheese, which is matured in the underground cellars for around five months.

Organic Glera marc, the residual solids after the grapes have been pressed, sourced from the nearby Perlage Winery, is then applied to the rind of the cheese. The thin rind allows the Glera marc to infuse the rich, dense paste with mellow wine aromas, bringing hints of cellar, wood, and grappa.

Accompanying the cheese were bowls of biscuits, dates, apricots, walnuts and strawberries.

Wine

Yet another wet and miserable Tuesday afternoon, when will it end?  Anyhow, those who braved the rain and cold were rewarded with a fine meal and a couple of excellent wines to lift flagging spirits. Julian Parmegiani, with assistance from Rob Guthrie, produced some delicious lamb shanks with an unusual side dish, which was also well received. See full food report. 

The canape wine was a truly excellent Pikes Merle Riesling from the Clare Valley. 2017 at 12% This wine is made by Pikes in only exceptional years, as 2017 has proven to be with Clare Rieslings. This wine was clean and fresh, pale yellow, with an abundance of quality fruit. Green apple, lime, and lemon zest are flavours that greet the first sip. Perfect balance of fruit and persistent acids delivering a near perfect, lingering finish. This wine is Pikes flagship white wine, and it certainly deserves that tag. Many years of great drinking ahead. 

Wine 1 was also a beauty, the Tua Rita Rosso dei Notri 2016 @ 14.5 %. A lovely Italian red wine indeed. A Sangiovese blend from Tuscany, this wine ticks all the boxes in what one would look for in a red to accompany a robust meal of lamb shanks. Whilst the wine was medium weight, it was powerful yet balanced and packed in tons of dark fruit flavours off set by some tannin and oak. Acid was still sufficient to give a clean finish with lingering flavours. A top wine, my pick for the day. 

Wine 2 was the Vasse Felix Cabernet 2010 from Margaret River, WA @ 14.5 %. Vass Felix was the first vineyard planted in the Margaret River region in 1967 by Dr Tom Cullity. A genuine trailblazer. The vineyard is now part of the Holmes a Court group.  The bird featured on the label is a falcon imported by Dr Cullity to scare away another bird, the Silvereye, which was damaging the crop.  Over the years, Vass Felix has been at the forefront of Margaret River wines with their Chardonnay and, of course, Cabernet. The past is sadly where this wine belongs, in my view. Now at 15 yo, the wine, or at least this bottle of wine, had seen better days. Still drinkable, but a shadow of its former glorious self, maybe 10 years ago. The acid had fallen away, leading to a tired, flat wine. Very sad to see it just didn't have the legs to last the distance. 

Final wine enjoyed by all was the 2021 Bruno Rocca Barbera d'Alba @ 15 % from the Piedmont region of Italy. A medium-bodied wine rippling with flavour from dark quality fruit, spice and good natural acidity. Oak and tannins blending in well. Still a few years short of its ideal drinking window, I found the wine enjoyable to drink now, with a promise of improvement over time.  A lighter, fruitier style than a Sangiovese or Nebbiolo, but very popular in Italy.

12 August 2025 Bernard Leung

Food review by James Hill and wine review by Stephen O'Halloran

Food

2022 Chef of the Year Bernard Leung was in the kitchen producing a Cantonese feast for us today.  He was assisted by his friend Carly Lloyd.

Canapés

Bountiful canapés today, we started with

• Silken tofu & century egg with a soy, green onion dressing.
• Then slow soy braised beef shin with fragrant chilli oil.
• Pork dim sum served with two chilli dipping sauces - one hot, the other sweet.

Main

A feast it was. On the plate we had pork belly with five spice, honey soy chicken wings, bok choy and rice. The crispiest crackling ever and moist sticky chicken wings, a treat!  All perfectly cooked, authentic and robust flavours. On the side were roasted peanuts, along with some mama sauce - a crispy chilli that remains crispy even when drenched with hot oil in the cooking process.  A lot more textural than heat, and adds a umami depth of flavour to the dish. Many comments of praise for the high quality of the canapés and main course presented today.

Sourdough bread was sourced from Bakers Delight.

Cheese

Our Cheesemaster Mark Bradford presented an Australian cow’s milk white mould cheese for us today, ‘Petit Fleuri’. Handcrafted double cream brie from organic milk with added cream.  Originally from the French Alps, Matthieu Megard values the importance of ‘terroir’ in the cheese making process to reflect the local environment and selects the finest organic milk from family-owned dairies in the South West of Victoria. The rich yellow coloured interior matures to a soft, buttery texture with a mild, creamy flavour, notes of mushroom and delicate hints of garlic chives. A good match for our meal theme today, and came to the table in good condition.

To accompany the cheese, Bernard assembled a wombok and noodle salad, ‘Changs noodle’ with sliced wombok, crispy noodles, some almonds, dressed with vinegar, sugar and sesame oil. Loved the flavours and textures of this salad, a perfect match for the cheese.

Coffee today was supplied by Garage Roasters of Croydon - a friend of Bernard’s who roasts his own beans. Please check him out (www.garageroasters.com.au).

Wine

For the lovely canapes, we were presented with a very enjoyable Spanish white wine, a 2022 Serra Barcelo, White Grenache @ 14 %. I really liked this wine, fresh, well-balanced and easy to drink with the canapes, really nice fruit, very flavoursome with sufficient acid to ensure a crisp, clean finish. Before I tasted the wine, I feared that it might taste like one of those southern Rhone Whites we have occasionally. I really do not like that trio of Roussanne, Viognier and Marsanne, far too oily and unctuous for my palate. Anyhow, as it unfolded, this Spanish white was quite different and in my view a winner. Let's hope our Winemaster can source some more!

Wine 1 on the list was a 2018 Tyrrells Stevens Sem, @ 10.5% an 8/10 year in the Hunter for Sem. Very light structure. Pale greenish/yellow colour approaching almost no colour at all. On the palate, taut and controlled, not giving much away. Some very restrained Hunter Sem flavours of grass and green apple. Lots of acid still, even at 7 yo, this wine has been made for the hills and will become a classic in 5 to 10 years. Would love to see it then. 

Wine 2 on the list was my wine of the day, the Tyrrells 2015 Belford Chardonnay @ 13 %. A multi-award winner through the wine shows, with good reason. This wine was now well developed as a 10 yo showing light golden yellow colour. Lovely chardonnay flavours of honey, nut and buttery overtones. Rich and elegant, oak, acid and excellent fruit delivering a masterclass in how good an Australian Chardonnay can be.  I would love to think we have more in the cellar.

Wine 3 on the list was the 2013 Craiglee Shiraz @ 13.5% from the Sunbury region of Vic. A cool climate vineyard producing powerful but elegant wines. This wine is now 12 yo and is drinking well. Spicy, dark fruit and subtle oak combine with fine tannins to deliver a mature, developed wine that drinks well, but maybe a year or two past its prime, with a little acid fall away noticeable.

That brings us to the end of the wines that we all tasted. The party continued with different wines being provided to each table. 

5 August 2025 Hal Epstein

Food review by James Hill and wine review by Stephen O'Halloran

Food

Hal Epstein was our Chef of the Day presenting some ‘osso buco’.

Trawling the archives, the last time we had osso bucco was July 2017, when we had it two weeks running “, one a ‘Rosso’ and the others ‘Bianco’, coincidentally, that was the first time Hal assisted in the kitchen!

Canapés

Yours truly assisted with the first two canapés.

First up, Bresaola with papaya.

Papaya, in season, perfectly ripe, wrapped in air-dried salted beef. This is a specialty meat originating from the Lombardy region of Italy.

A good balance of salty beef with the sweetness of the fruit and a lingering aftertaste.

Mushroom vol-au-vents.

Button mushrooms cooked in butter, then cream and Parmesan added, seasoned with salt and pepper and served warm. Some tarragon was added on top to enhance the flavour.

Hal prepared Stephanie Alexander’s baked zucchini cakes made with coarse-grated zucchini, evoo, self-raising flour, Parmesan and egg to bind, topped with some sweet chilli sauce for a hit of heat.

Main

Hal’s osso bucco was veal sourced from Handler Meat, Rushcutters Bay.

It was served with a sauce made with tomato paste, chopped tomato and a passata, some Hunter Sémillon and white truffle oil.

Mouth-filling, generous flavours, rich and unctuous. The meat was tender and falling apart. It was served on some al denté fusilli with pecorino cheese, salad leaves and pine nuts for added texture and crunch.

Layers of big, hearty flavours today were well appreciated by members.

Thanks Hal.

Bread was from Baker Blue Double Bay. It was country white sourdough with a chewy caramelized crust and moist crumb.

Cheese

Our Cheese Master Mark Bradford, presented a farmhouse French blue goat’s cheese. The cheese came to the table in very good condition, flavoursome and textural, enjoyed by all today. It had been ordered for our CotY dinner but held over, perhaps the extra aging added to its flavour.

An unusual blue goat’s milk farmhouse cheese from France. Ferme de la Tremblaye are located south-west of Paris

Dense, with a creamy texture and a distinct ash coat, the deep blue veins add a striking contrast to the porcelain white paste. Mild and savoury flavour.

It was simply accompanied by some dressed salad leaves and roasted pine nuts.

Wine

A small but high quality gathering centred around Hal Epstein's delicious Osso Buco, preceded by some tasty canapes, was the theme for the day. The Osso Buco was a hit, very tasty and plenty of it. Nobody went home hungry. 

The proceedings commenced with a few bottles of Wynns Coonawarra Chardonnay 2024 @ 12%. It must be 20+ years since I have had a bottle of this wine. It was then and is now a reliable, well priced commercial Chardy perfect for the canapes. The wine was in good condition, pale yellow with an attractive presentation of fruit and acid. A nice clean finish. A good wine to get the party started. 

Wine No 1 on the list was an excellent Antinori Chianti Classico Grand Riserva 2010 @14 %. My wine of the day. A 7/8 year in Tuscany and the wine showed its class. Now a 15 yo Sangiovese holding together well and, in my view, drinking beautifully. My view was not however shared by one of our resident experts on our table, Phil Laffer who considered the wine was suffering from a dose of "Brett" or to those in the wine making trade, also known as Brettanomyces, a yeast found in some wine which can have sometimes have a spoiling effect on a wine. Phil did not like the wine, which sort of left me high and dry having just beforehand commented on how good it was. 

Phil, ever the gentleman he is, assured me that sometimes even winemakers cannot detect Brett! Phew, that was close, reputation still intact, just. In any event this Sangiovese, Brett or no Brett, was to my taste drinking well. Medium body, ruby red colour, a powerful wine brimming with black fruit flavours and combining oak, tannin and acid perfectly to produce a firm persisting aftertaste. I am becoming a true fan of aged Sangiovese. 

The second wine on the lunch list was the Giovanni Rosso Langhe Nebbiolo 2010 @14.5%. A top year in Piedmont. My love/hate relationship with the famed Nebbiolo grape continues, although being the hard, but fair marker I am, I have to say that this wine gained my grudging approval. Rather than the usual defensive structures Nebbiolo exudes, biting acidity and tooth pulling tannin, I found this wine almost approachable. Medium to light body, juicy, with garnet red colour, traces of non-assertive tar and earth, leading to a lingering finish with plenty of flavour. Good to see a Nebbiolo on its best behaviour. 

The final wine that we all shared was a Craggy Range 2011 Sav Blanc from NZ 13.5 %. This was indeed the surprise of the day, at least for me. I normally do not let S/B into the house, however today it proved a real shock. 14 years on from harvest, the wine was mature but still fresh, well balanced and matched the blue goat’s cheese perfectly. I was amazed at how well the wine had dealt with extended bottle age, although it is true that I have tasted a number of Loire S/B's that have drunk well at 10 to 15 yo. The winemaking team at Craggy Range are on top of their game and make superb wines generally. Perhaps it is the skill of the wine maker and extended bottle age has produced a S/B that does not have that offensive vegetative smell of freshly crushed lantana. Wonders will never cease! The wine eventually got a tick from me on this occasion, not to be taken as a precedent. 

That concluded the bracket of wines enjoyed by all and there was then another bottle for each table of different wines which I cannot comment upon. Our table scored an Andrew Thomas Hunter Shiraz 2018, which was excellent. 

Before winding up there is something I want to say about the real benefits of being a member of our Society. This has hit home with me over the last few weeks when we enjoyed the COTY Dinner and the Burgundy lunch last week. On both occasions our Wine Master Nick Reynolds has produced some wonderful and need I say it, expensive wines, many of which I imagine would be in the hundreds of dollars PB range, possibly a lot more. These wines are amongst the great wines of the world, and most of us would hesitate to purchase a single bottle, yet there we are sitting down to have a decent size glass of many of the best the world has to offer. On many occasions I have no doubt that we are enjoying a collection of wines on that day as good as anywhere on earth. Just look at last week’s Burgundy wine list!

Apart from our Society providing a forum for friendship and high class food and cheese, it also allows members for the price of membership and lunch cost, to sample the next level of the world's great wines, which would otherwise be unattainable.

29 July 2025 Keith Steele

Food review by James Hill and wine review by Stephen O'Halloran

Food

The room was packed for our Burgundy wine tasting today with Chef of the day, Keith Steele, presenting his ‘famous’ beef cheeks.

Our President, Stephen O’Halloran, began proceedings today, welcoming David Barnett as a new member of our Society.

Stephen took the opportunity to present a trophy for Seafood Chef of the Year to Bernard Leung and a “best accompaniment to a salad” trophy to David Madson.

Canapés

Greg Chugg first up with a calf’s liver pâté made with brandy, butter, and topped with pickled guindilla peppers and red peppers. Served on garlic and thyme biscuit, a good mouthful, very taste. Why don’t we see Greg near the kitchen more often?

David Madson followed with some homemade mini quiche made with satay sauce. When David cooks, there is always something with a twist. Today the quiche, served warm, was made with satay sauce. Delicious!

James Tinslay’s canapé was medjool dates stuffed with Gorgonzola and cream cheese, topped with a pecan and dusted with Kashmiri chili.

The canapés, all with a little variation of heat, were bountiful today and much appreciated and enjoyed by members attending our lunch.

Main

Today’s main course went perfectly with the wine theme selected by our cellar master today. The sweetness of the beef cheeks and Pedro Ximénez was just perfect for the tannin expression of the wine presented today.

It’s a Frank Camorra recipe from Movida ‘Beef cheeks with Pedro Ximénez’.

The beef cheeks are simmered with six bottles each of PX sherry and red wine, plus carrots, garlic, and onion. They were cooked for three to four hours until they reached the right consistency.

Tender and full of flavour they were served on a bed of creamy potato made by our REX team. The mash very well under the beef cheek, with the sauce lovely, rich, unctuous, and full of flavour. We had some crisp green beans on the side and plenty of bread to mop up.

There were many favourable comments from the floor on all the food presented today.

Well done team.

Sourdough from Cornucopia, Naremburn.

Cheese

Keith requested his favourite cheese for lunch today, a firm raw cow’s milk cheese from the Savoie region of France. Simply accompanied with some dried apricots and walnuts.

Welcomed back our Cellar Master Nick Reynolds from a month’s research and education in Europe.

A shout out to Phil Laffer who stood in for Nick.

Good to see Josef Condrau and Peter Laycock, long-time members of our society, in the room today.

Yes, I lost a bet to Keith and had to wear a Lion’s jersey all lunch.

Lunch was closed with a 70th birthday toast to Hilton Chapman, who generously shared some bottles of XO Château Laubade Bas Armagnac with us.

Wine

A full house, some excellent food and a very impressive wine list, who could ask for more?  Our Chef du Jour Keith Steele provided us with a splendid meal of beef cheeks, proceeded by some delicious canapes. Mark Bradford sourced a terrific cheese, and Nick Reynolds treated us to a selection of Burgundy wines. See Food Report for details of the food. 

The canape wine was a Tiger Tiger chardonnay from Collector Wines near Canberra. This wine was however grown in the Tumbarumba region of NSW, home to some of our best Chardonnays. 2017 vintage @ 12.9 %. A really good wine for the canapes. Now at 8 yo the wine is fully developed, mature and well balanced. Lovely traces of melon and grapefruit, firm acidity producing a crisp persistent finish.  Good choice. 

Wine 1 on the wine list was a Moreau Naudet Chablis/Chardonnay 2022 12.5%. This wine was to me a bit of a surprise, in that it tasted more like a white Burgundy than a true Chablis. I did not detect any of those classic hallmarks of Chablis namely, steely flint like first sip, biting acidity and overall tight, austere structure. To me the wine was mouth filling, rich and opulent, very much in the White Burgundy style. Climate change is I understand making it difficult to produce the true classic Chablis. That said I did enjoy the wine, blotting out confusion in my mind of what I was drinking! 

Wine 2 on the list was Girardin Puligny-Montrachet Les Vieilles 2018 Chardonnay @ 13%, 7/8 vintage. Now with 7 years bottle age, the wine is beginning to hit its straps. Light golden brown/yellow colour, taste soft and classy. Firm stone fruit flavours with a hint of buttery overtones and a trace of honey. Great balance, an excellent wine. Will drink well for another 10 years. 

Before we move onto the red wines, I must declare my hand, I am a Bordeaux Man! The reason? In my view the wines from Bordeaux are generally more consistent and reliable than those from Burgundy. The Pinot grape is thin skinned and troublesome to cultivate and is more easily affected by adverse weather conditions which often occur in Burgundy, unlike the Cabernet grape grown in Bordeaux which is a thick skinned grape and is more resistant to weather factors. I have had the good fortune in my life to have sampled the best from both regions, and although I have tasted some superb Burgundies, I would say that if you had a spare $200 in your pocket to buy a bottle from either region, sight unseen, a Bordeaux would be a safer bet. Anyhow, that's my view, fire away at will all you Burgundy lovers.

Moving right along to wine 3 the 2016 Chambolle Musigny @ 13%, a 7/8 vintage, I found the wine to be medium bodied, ruby red, a complex wine with strawberry overtones. Slight oak noticeable, but generally well balanced. Rich and seductive flavours with a cherry like finish which persisted on the back palate. 

Wine 4 was the Chambolle 2015 Musigny Clos de l'Orme @12.5%, a 7/9 rated vintage, my wine of the day. Ruby red in colour, spicy but classy, rich on the palate. 

Beautiful balance of oak, acid and tannin producing a silky smooth velvety wine of great character and charm. Drinking now at it's peak?? Hard to see it getting any better. Time will tell how it presents in say 10 years’ time. I suspect it will be a classic. I will now deal with wines 5 and 6 together as they are both Vosnee -Romanee from the same year 1995. My research indicates that 1995 vintage wise in Burgundy was a "generally good year, with however some mixed results" make of that what you will. Of the two wines, I preferred the Les Rouges @13%. Both of these wines are now 30 yo and are drinking beyond their prime. The Les Rouges was to me holding together better than the Orveaux, which was certainly beginning to fade. The Les Rouges still had good colour with some noticeable browning around the rim, deeply matured flavours of spice, black fruits and earthy overtones. Just enough remaining acid to ensure a positive finish. A grand old wine that at its peak would have exuded style and class. 

The same comments would also apply to the En Orveaux which I am sure at its zenith, maybe 15 years ago would have been a top flight burgundy, but the ravages of time seem to have affected this wine more so than the Les Rouges, leaving us with a slightly sad bottle of a quality wine. I hate seeing that.

15 July 2025 Paul Thorne

Food review by James Hill and wine review by Stephen O'Halloran

Food

In the kitchen today was Paul Thorne assisted by James Tinslay, Gary Linnane and yours truly.

Canapés

First up, Gary Linnane with some caramelised onion topped with very good quality anchovies in a pastry cup, garlic chives to finish.

Texture and salty, sweet flavours with this canapé, simple yet delicious.

Then yours truly reprised Damian Pignolet’s simple country terrine with fresh herbs. The main ingredients are pork shoulder, chicken mince, chicken liver and hard pork back fat. Served on crostini with a morello cherry

Paul presented pea soup, asking the question, what’s the main flavour ingredient. No one guessed it. Paul blended peas, duck stock and shallots in the soup. The secret ingredient? Kafir lime leaves added another dimension of flavour.

James Tinslay baked some pinwheel scrolls made with ham, sopressa, Gorgonzola, paprika and Dijon mustard, fresh out of the oven, they were warm with the cheese perfectly melted, adding a subtle piquancy, they finished with some residual heat on the palate.

So tasty, we wanted more.

Main

Paul served pork neck, plated on a base of pea and ham soup. The pork comprised five pieces cooked in the oven for 4.5 hours at 135 C. The pork was cooked in trays and sat on a base of onions and duck stock. The pea and ham soup was a combination of many vegetables and legumes/pulses including carrots, peas, beans (2 or 3 types) barley and lentils.  The ham hock flavour was infused and then shreds were throughout the soup.

The meal came to the table smartly presented with a late addition of finely chopped herbs. The pork had terrific colour and showed it was cooked perfectly. Pork can be a challenge to get right and, as it rests, it still cooks. The pea and ham soup provided good colour and the broth provided additional flavour and moisture to the pork.

Overall, the flavour was delicate, the soup well seasoned with layers of flavour.

The bread was from Haberfield bakery, an old favourite of the Society.

Cheese

Our cheese master Mark Bradford, presented a French white mould goat’s cheese for our enjoyment today it was ‘Bûche de Lucay. P.Jacquin et fils produce traditional-style goat's milk cheeses in the Loire region of western France.  This typical, French log-shaped cheese takes its name from nearby Lucay-le-Male. Fresh salted curds are covered with Penicillium candidum and ripened in humid rooms to encourage the moulds to form a velvety white coat.

Transported in a special ‘cloche’ to ensure the mould continues to ripen, this chevre has a dry, crumbly centre surrounded by a ring of soft ripened goat’s cheese, all blanketed in a soft velvet-like rind. The flavour is rich and creamy with a traditional goat’s milk tang.

Accompaniments were big, plump grapes, dried figs marinated in port and some spicy pickled zucchini, a sweet and sour match to the cheese.

Wine

The proceedings were kicked off with an excellent Italian white, an Arneis from Robert Sarotto 2023 @13%. This wine from the Piedmont region was an excellent choice for the canapes, which were tasty and plentiful. The wine was a delight to drink, fresh and clean with attractive acidity. Colour pale yellow with strong citrus-type fruits on the palate. Clean lingering finish which complemented the canapes well. Overall, a most appealing wine, hope we have more in the Cellar. 

The second wine was however a letdown. The Schmolzer and Brown Riesling 2024 @ 10.5%. A wine intended to be similar to a German Kabinett Riesling with fruit grown on one of the highest vineyards in Victoria and with an alcohol content similar to some German Rieslings on the higher end of the alcohol scale, but sadly, that is where the similarity ended. The wine lacked flavour. Very pale, dry with strong acidic overtones, but no real follow through at the finish, rendering the wine quite nondescript. Perhaps I am being harsh as it is only a 1 year old riesling, usually not a good combination, and given a few more years to develop in bottle, it may come good. Not an attractive wine at present. 

The third wine was the star of the afternoon, the Seppelt Sparkling Shiraz 2008 @13 %, made by none other than our own Chilly Hargraves. A wine produced in only the best years of quality fruit, this wine is one of Seppelt's top shelf wines, along with St Peters Shiraz and the Drumborg Riesling. I love a good sparkling shiraz with that voluptuous, rich, velvety mouthfeel. Gentle tannins with spicy Shiraz overtones. The wine is now 17 yo, but still possesses great mousse with fine bead. A delightful finish, persistent and alluring. A wonderful wine. 

The next wine represented a huge step down in everything wine can offer. The dreaded Guigal Rhone white 2022 @14%. A blend of mainly Viognier, with probably some Marsanne and Roussanne thrown to complete the witches' brew. I really dislike this wine style with its unctuous, cloying, oily mouthfeel and sickly aftertaste. What have I missed? The thing is I very much like the Guigal Reds, which are always good, reliable wines, you know what you're getting. A bit like the Coca Cola of wines. Why they persist in making these horrible white wines, I do not know. Perhaps there are some people in France who like them, but then the French are different!

The final wine of the day was yet again a letdown, and indeed a very surprising let down. The wine was an Andrew Thomas Hunter Sem 2022 @11%. Some of you may recall me raving about one of his Sems, a 2015, in my report of the 25th of June last. Thomas is a fine winemaker, arguably the best in the Hunter. What happened to this wine, I do not know. The wine was quite pale, plenty of acid with good fruit evident, but the wine just lacked flavour. It was very restrained, tight and unyielding.

Perhaps the wine was still evolving at only 3 yo. Who knows? Something was missing, flavour certainly. Let's hope that 2/3 years in bottle may reveal its true potential. I have great confidence in the winemaker. 

8 July 2025 Amosh and the REX Team

Food review by Bill Alexiou-Hucker and wine review by Stephen O'Halloran

Wine

A small but willing crowd turned out for another mid-winter lunch on a cold, bleak Tuesday, but beautiful lamb shanks and some excellent wines lifted our spirits to a sufficient degree to rate the afternoon a success. 

Our first wine was a delightful 2017 Watervale Riesling from KT Wines @ 12%. Kerrie Thompson is an outstanding Riesling producer.  The vintage of 2017 in Clare/Watervale was rated 10/10. So, when you combine a great year + a top district for Riesling + Kerrie Thompson = a terrific wine, which indeed this wine was.  An 8 yo Riesling drinking at its peak was pure joy. Fresh, clean, but at the same time powerful fruit flavours, combined to give us a wonderful wine, so flavoursome, balanced with still crisp acid leading to a lingering finish. Hints of green apple and grapefruit remained on the palate long after the wine was gone. My wine of the day.  

The second wine was the Paulazzo Hilltops Cabernet 2022 @ 13%. This wine was received with a mixed reception by the room. Some did not like it all, others greeted it warmly, including myself. Quite clearly a very young cabernet, medium bodied with good balance between oak, tannin and acid. Given time, I feel this wine will develop in 5/6 years to become an elegant, lighter style of Cabernet. Lots of flavour from earthy spice and blackcurrant. Lovely, clear ruby red colour. An attractive looking and tasting wine, one to hold for the future. Hope our wine master has stashed away a few dozen so we can try again in a year or so. In body and texture, more like a Bordeaux than an Australian Cabernet. Let's see what happens in a few years. 

The next wine needs no introduction to the WFS members. One of our Society favourites, the Wynns Black label Cab 2013 @13.5% This wine, vintage after vintage, never lets you down. This particular wine, now 13yo, is just hitting its straps. A wine of great power, rich and intense with dark fruit flavours, traces of leather and spice, all held together with perfectly developed oak, tannin and acid. A sumptuous mouth-filling finish with a persistent aftertaste. Let's hope we have a stack more in our cellar.

We then moved on to a white wine, the famous Dr Loosen Kabinett Riesling 2022 @8%. To be frank, I would have much preferred this wine to have been served as an aperitif wine rather than being sandwiched between two big reds. As far as the wine was concerned, it was most enjoyable. A typical high-quality German Riesling, low in alcohol, with an abundance of delicate citrus flavours, smooth and mouth-filling with that typical German crisp acid, and a powerful finish. The wine may have been there for the cheese, a Marchetto, but it did not pair well with that particular cheese. A soft, creamier cheese would have been better. No reflection on the wine, it was excellent, just out of place. 

Final wine of the day was the Stephen Pannell Adelaide Hills Syrah 2016 @14 %. A wine from one of our most successful wine makers, son of Dr Bill Pannell, founder of the distinguished Moss Wood vineyard in the Margaret River, WA.  These grapes were straight SA shiraz from an excellent year.  A dense, medium to full-bodied wine, with a soft, voluptuous taste and wonderful mouth feel. Rich in tannin, spice and oak flavours, the wine, in my view, is still a few years off full development. Drinking today, the wine is juicy and intense with the promise of future delights in store for those prepared to wait another year or two.  Sadly, as with the German wine, the Marchetto did not pair well with this wine, a mismatch of flavours, not doing justice to either cheese or wine. A scenario that occurs only rarely in our WFS.

Food

It was a modestly sized but delightfully rowdy crew that gathered on Tuesday to savour the culinary creations from the ever-impressive REX kitchen. The mood was light, the laughter plentiful, and as our President Steve O’Halloran quipped, once his presidential duties are done, he might just take up a new role herding cats, a fitting metaphor for the spirited group before him.

True to form, the kitchen team delivered a procession of delights that left no palate wanting. Tuesday was no exception, if anything, it raised the bar yet again.

We kicked off with a smoked salmon blini, but this was no dainty dollop on a dry disc. Generously topped with silky, smoky salmon, it was a rare sight to see such abundance in a canapé, a true one-bite indulgence that set the tone for the lunch.

Next came Amosh’s now-iconic pork, fennel, and apple sausage roll, a crowd favourite. Packed with punchy flavour, this little parcel needed no sauce, no garnish, no introduction. The trio of elements combined to deliver a full-flavoured blast, the kind that makes you pause mid-conversation to savour every chew.

Then came the chicken tandoori balls, Chicken thigh marinated with tandoori paste and yogurt, roasted in the oven (180C), then shredded and mixed with mozzarella cheese, into a perfect ball, then coated in panko crumbs and served with a Sriracha mayo. Golden-fried and teasingly spicy, a delicate crunch giving way to tender meat and subtle heat. If finger food had royalty, this was surely it.

But the undisputed star of the day was the lamb shank. Twice cooked, first a slow, love-filled four-hour session, then finished to perfection the next day, this was comfort food with a capital C. Served atop the kitchen’s famously smooth, creamy mash (you know the one), with perfectly diced, just-firm carrots and a sauce that kissed rather than drowned, it was a plate of pure satisfaction. The meat, soft and gelatinous, surrendered to the fork, falling off the bone like it had better places to be.

All in all, it was another stellar session of great food, good company, and laughter echoing through the room. The REX team does it again, and we wouldn’t have it any other way.

1 July 2025 Amosh and the REX Team

Food review by James Hill and wine review by Stephen O'Halloran

Food

On a cold, rainy and grey day, there’s no better place to be than at our Society rooms for some hearty winter fare. Amosh and his team were cooking today with the theme of United States Independence Day, July 4th.

Canapés

First up, delicious, creamy devilled eggs, the yolks were combined with crispy ham, mustard and parsley.

Then came fried mozzarella cheese sticks covered in a light tempura batter. They were accompanied by a dipping sauce of mayo, siracha and lemon juice. Perfectly cooked, tasty, not overly oily.

Lastly, some chicken wings in a buffalo sauce, they were cooked the day before in a slow oven, marinated with bacon powder, butter, brown sugar, with some habanero and white balsamic vinegar. Tender and good spice on the palate, very moreish.

Main

Less is more. Our main was pork ribs, candied corn and mac and cheese.

Looked simple, but we know a lot of work went into the dish. The ribs, nicely spiced, were marinated in chilli powder, BBQ sauce, brown sugar, Dijon mustard and seasoned. They were slow-cooked for two hours under foil. Plenty of meat on the bones, best eaten with your fingers to chew on the bone.

The corn was grilled with butter, seasoning and condensed milk to add to the sweetness.

Mac and cheese made with bechamel sauce, cheddar and parsley.

High quality authentic food perfectly executed by our Rex team today, much appreciated by members and reflected in comments from the floor.

Two types of bread today, one seeded with main and sourdough with cheese.

Cheese

Master Mark Bradford selected a blue cow’s milk cheese from Oregon, USA. It was the first time this cheese was served at our Society, it came to the table in good condition, good flavour and texture.

Bluehorn Blue Cheese is a striking cheese soaked in local Syrah wine, giving it a distinct deep purple rind.
Oregon’s Rogue Creamery is recognised as one of the most innovative artisan dairies in North America. BCorp and USDA organic certified, sustainability is a key part of the process at the farm.

Handmade using Rogue Creamery’s traditional, open-vat cheesemaking methods, cave-ageing for an extended period of time allows this blue cheese to develop a soft, luxurious texture. Each wheel is soaked in an organic, biodynamic Syrah red wine sourced from Southern Oregon’s award-winning Troon Vineyard. The wine’s complex bramble fruit and plum notes enhance the naturally fruity profile of the cheese, whilst the wine seeps into the rind, providing a subtle purple hue.

Wine

On what must have been one of the most miserable days of the year weather wise, 30 or so members huddled together to enjoy some American-style food for our lunch. See full food report for details. 

Concerning things to do with wine, our winemaking legend Phil Laffer took over the task of Winemaster in place of Nick Reynolds, who is on vacation. The first wine to go with the canapes was the Tyrrells Bin 63 Sem/Chardy blend from 2017, a great year in the Hunter. I normally avoid this wine, which I have usually found to be profoundly disappointing. A good Sem and a good Chardy mixed together should produce something quite good, but sadly not so. The attractive aspects of each grape seem to me to get lost in the blend. The result normally is a bland, unexciting wine.  However, in the case of this wine today, I actually found myself enjoying it.  Clear light straw colour, crisp on the palate, good fruit, with plenty of enjoyable acid at the finish to produce a nice clean finish. A good wine to go with the canapés. 

Next wine was a beauty, 2005 Tyrrells Vat 47 Chardonnay. A great wine, my wine of the day.  A 20-year-old Chardonnay masterpiece. Deep straw colour, high quality fruit, balanced with subtle oak, mouth filling yet elegant, superb finish with sufficient acid to keep the wine alive till the last sip.  My comment at lunch was that the wine was rich, opulent and decadent. So much powerful flavour from the strong citrus backbone of the wine. This wine may not be quite as elegant and refined as some of the great French white burgundies, but in terms of taste and enjoyment, this top Australian Chardonnay could hold its head up high next to the French. Remember, this is our style of Chardonnay, which will always be different from the French, more robust and bigger, but a superb drink. Many thanks to the Winemaster for treating us to this wine. 

The third wine was the John Duvall Plexus GSM 2014. One of my favourite wine blends from one of our best winemakers. Duval was chief winemaker for many years at Penfolds, overseeing some of the great vintages of Grange, Bin 707 and so on, before leaving the company and starting to produce wines under his own name, which are always excellent. This wine was a blend of mainly Shiraz and some Grenache, with a dash of Mourvedre. A big wine, immensely dark with pronounced flavours such as plum and blackberries and cherry. Strong oak and tannin overtones with spice and cedar hints. A really gutsy wine, full of flavour, drinking at its peak. I love this style of Australian red wine.

Next on the list was a Pinot Gris from the very talented winemakers at Scorpio, vintage 2011. This Mornington Peninsula winery has produced many excellent wines in recent years, with their chardonnay and pinot noir being standouts. This wine, now 14 yo was drinking very well considering its age. Typical PG colour of light brass, with a rich aroma and taste of apple and pear, the wine was full-flavoured with still bright acidity. That's the upside; the downside is that just one glass will do me, thank you very much. 

The final wine for the day was the Poderi Aldo Contero Langhe Rosso 2011. My research indicates that this wine is usually a cocktail of Nebbiolo, Merlot and Cabernet, although this wine seems to be made from the Freisa grape solely. Does anyone know this variety?  Anyhow, I felt let down by this wine. Perhaps I was expecting too much from this normally excellent producer.  To me, the wine presented as tired and lacking flavour , with failing acid. My research tells me that Freisa is similar to Nebbiolo, strong in tannin and acid, but perhaps 14 years in bottle was just too much for this wine. Pity, I was looking forward to it as with most Poderi wines we have had in recent times here at the WFS.

24 June 2025 Merv Peacock

Food  review by Mark Bradford and wine review by Stephen O'Halloran

Food

What better on a cold winter’s day than a hearty boeuf bourguignon, washed down with a selection of fine 2021 cabernets from the Coonawarra?  Merv Peacock was in the kitchen today providing us with three canapes as well as the main, all on his own, with the exception of Leigh Hall on plating and odds and ends, and the usual enthusiastic support in the kitchen of “Team REX.”

Canapes

Merv did mention that his wife Kerrie provided some inspiration with the canapes.

First off pea and ham soup; always a good start to a cold winter’s lunch. Merv acknowledged these as being his wife’s creation.  A couple of croutons added some crunch to the soup.

Following was mackerel pate with a home-made crust. Mackerel, Philly cheese, horseradish and dill, and balsamic pearls to give it a lift.

The beef curry puffs, being the third pass around, were Kerry’s creation.  Served with a mango chutney.

An excellent start to the lunch and a good match for the several canape wines on show today.

Main

Today’s boeuf bourguignon was from a Nagi Maehashi recipe, with each component being seared separately in the pot.  Like Nagi’s recipe, Merv used an Australian Pinot and not a French one.  We had Dutch cream potatoes – Kerry peeled all 7 kg of them – with peas and a puff pastry crust.

A tasty lunch which was very appropriate for tasting the reds.

Cheese

The Cheesemaster presented a Maffra Red Wax Aged Cheddar, from Maffra in the Gippsland of Victoria.  This popular creamy waxed cheddar – produced by Ferial Zekiman and her team – has subtle fruity tones and a delicate nuttiness.

Merv served mixed nuts and dried apricots with the cheese, and his spicy chutney served as well was a good match with the cheese.

Wine

Lunch today was a beef bourguignon prepared expertly by our Chef du Jour, Merv Peacock, with assistance from Leigh Hall, with the generous servings of canapes, which were delicious. See full food report. 

With regard to wines, we commenced with a delightful Skillogalee Clare riesling 2023. Whilst quite young, the wine did not suffer from being drunk, perhaps a bit prematurely. Crisp and refreshing, plenty of lively acids and a persistent finish. Excellent balance, a nice wine. 

For the lunch wines, we were presented with seven highly regarded Coonawarra Cabernets, all from vintage 2021, except for the last wine, which was from 2000. Vintage 2021 in Coonawarra is regarded very highly.  The wines were St Hugo, Redman, Riddoch, Parker, Wynns Black Label and Majella. Wine 7 was the Parker Estate First Growth 2020. A very impressive lineup indeed. I do not intend to review each wine, as writing about 7 near identical wines pushes my boredom level to breaking point, so I will just deal with the worst and then the best. Those two wines were the Redman and the Parker First Growth. Of the other wines, all very enjoyable, my pick of the litter was the St Hugo, a lovely wine.

Dealing with the two wines to be discussed, first comes the worst, the Redman. I really did not like this wine one little bit. The taste to me was objectionable, maybe " green", ie unripe fruit or over extraction, was the problem, the bottom line is that it left a sour taste on the palate. To me this came as no surprise as I have watched a gradual decline in the quality of Redman's wines over many years.  To me, this is very sad. I first began drinking Redman "Claret", a Shiraz in the mid 60's, then enjoyed their first Cabernets in the early 70's  They were good wines. I continued to buy their wines for many years thereafter, but by the early 90s, something happened, and their wines were no longer appealing, at least to me. Looking back now, it has been like watching a slowly disintegrating marriage. The initial burst of joyous rapture as a young, keen wine enthusiast enjoying wines from a distinguished producer gradually cooled over the years into modest comfort and acceptance of diminishing enjoyment, then gradually deteriorating into indifference and finally restrained hostility.  All very regrettable, as I have always had a soft spot for Redman's.

As a postscript on Redman's, members may be interested to know that our erstwhile member Ray Kidd was the GM of Lindeman's when it acquired the  Redman property and the name "Rouge Homme" in June 1965. Our own member and winemaker Phil Laffer became winemaker at Rouge Homme in January 1966.   The Redman family subsequently acquired another property in Coonawarra and continued to make wine, under their own name, much to the discomfort of Lindemans. I digress. Back now to the second wine for review, the Parker First Growth 2020 @ 14.5% 

This wine comes from the southern end of the famous 13 x 2 Km stretch of the Terra Rosa strip of land in Coonawarra. This was a very serious wine, muscular, powerful and assertive, but at the same time smooth and perfectly balanced. Densely purple, with a huge berry fruit aroma, with hints of spice and cassis. The integration of oak, tannin and residual acid delivered a perfect finish, long and sensual.   To me, this wine represents the apex of Coonawarra Cabernet. Hugely flavoured and powerful, by far my wine of the day. On the other hand, if your taste preferences favour the more elegant Bordeaux style of Margaret River Cabernet, as seen in say Moss Wood, then the world is your oyster. Simply thrust your hand deeply into your pocket, pull out a large bundle of cash and buy yourself a bottle of each. Then you will have the best of both worlds.