Lunches
23 November 2021 - CoTD Steve Sparkes
Food review by Robert Wiggins and wine review by Richard Gibson
Steve Sparkles again
The ever-reliable Steve Sparkes was in the kitchen, reheating up a storm. If you ever want a safe pair of hands in the galley, Steve is your man.
November 23, 2021 (a quiet nod to JFK 58 years ago)
CANAPES
It was all a quality show, with a bit of a throwback and transportation to my wasted and forgotten youth of the 70’s with the canapes presented as party pies and sausage rolls, plus the obligatory prawn cocktail on a cracker. It made me nostalgic enough to want to go home after lunch and watch Number 96 with Abigail and listen to a bit of Led Zep and Black Sabbath. However, I refrained from those urges and went to the pub instead for a couple of quiet ones with the boys.
Steve’s meal was supposed to be put on in the middle of winter, however, due to covid restrictions, it was delayed to the middle of November. The weather was very obliging, with a relatively damp, cool day which went nicely with the fare that Steve served up.
The Pork and Fennel Sausage rolls and the Beef pies with crispy pastry, care of the Bourke St Bakery, came with some tangy sauce containing chilli and tomato and was washed down with two pinots, rather than the staple whites that are normally on offer for the aperitifs.
These were the Moss Wood and the By Farr. From all accounts, the By Farr was by far the better wine as all I tasted was the Moss Wood which might have once been a good wine, (doubtful) but the fruit has long since departed leaving only the spectre of green acid behind. The current cleanout of the cellar is long overdue as nothing lasts forever, especially mediocre wines… see the real wine report by Richard below.
LUNCH
It was quite a turn up for the lunch, with just about a full house as the word got around that Steve was in the kitchen and it did not disappoint. The main was a wonderful combination with both a piece of lamb saddle and backstrap wrapped together, with a delicious gravy that Steve remarked took more time and effort than any other part of the meal. Steve was a bit disappointed that the exterior was not crispy enough and needed a bit more salt, however, it would have been hard to fault it.
The gravy was a blend of multiple kilos of chicken wings and necks, pressure cooked and reduced down, plus the bones from the lamb, which Steve sourced from Sutton Forest Meats, which is his go to for quality lamb. That is an enormous amount of work for a gravy, which is why it tasted so great. I suppose this is one of the factors that separates the mediocre and good chefs from the great… if it was me, it probably would have been Holbrooks powder from the can. My only complaint about the gravy was that the extra reinforcements arrived at the table after the meal had been devoured. It was a temptation (resisted) to pour more gravy onto the empty plate and use the bread to sop it up.
The corn puree accompanying the meal was simply pureed corn off the cob mixed with cream. Sweet, simple, delicious and vibrant yellow colour. Placed upon the puree was a mix of peas, carrots and both black and red beetroot (Keith you missed out), with a few small edible (hopefully because they were devoured) flowers sprinkled amongst the veggies.
There was also a small round of a potato, crisply baked, to assist with the gravy
The wines with the meal are provided by Richard Gibson
For the entrees, the Sangreal By Farr Bannockburn Pinot Noir 2010 & Moss Wood Mornington Peninsula Pinot Noir 2010 were on the table.
The Farr wine (13% alc)is a single vineyard pinot produced from vines grown on the Farr family’s Bannockburn vineyards near Geelong. The area features limestone, bluestone and red ironstone terroir and Farr winemaking is in the minimal intervention camp; 70% whole bunch; open natural yeast ferment; unfined and unfiltered – it is aged in mostly new oak. The nose displayed perfumed dark cherry fruit, some smokey notes and spice. The palate showed intense, ripe cherry/plum fruits followed by cedar/spice. Tannins were velvety and well-integrated, and the wine had considerable length. Overall an expressive and powerful, yet balanced, pinot.
The Moss Wood (14% alc) appears to have been made from Mornington grower sourced grapes (handpicked; open natural yeast ferment; 12 months in French oak) - it being noted that Moss Wood also produce a Margaret River sourced pinot. The wine showed bright, cherry/red berry fruit with spicy, earthy notes. The palate displayed attractive developed cherry and plum fruit, soft well-integrated tannins and nuanced oak. It was an elegant, balanced wine with generous length.
The room was divided on which wine was the best in this bracket (so we’ll rule it as a draw). Both wines went well with the tasty ‘comfort food’ canapes.
MAIN COURSE WINES
Wynns Coonawarra Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon
Vertical tasting – 2015,2010, 2006,1998 (all served with the main course)
The Black Label Cab Sauvignon is a perennial favourite of Society members – it has a deserved reputation for producing amazingly consistent varietal and regional characteristics. The wine is produced only from the top 20-25% of Wynns Coonawarra cabernet fruit.
The 2015 displayed intense, attractive ripe dark fruit and cherry aromas with cassis/spice and chocolate notes. On the palate, the wine was of medium weight and well balanced with soft ripe fruit with cedar/tobacco notes, fine polished integrated tannins and good length. These characteristics were a common thread throughout each of the 4 vintages. The 2010 was almost identical with similar levels of richness and intensity of fruit (but more developed on the nose), attractive cedar notes, palate softness and seamless balance – the main difference being that the tannins in the 2015 had not reached the same degree of integration/roundness of the 2010, which is ageing very gracefully and is in the peak drinking window now.
There was some considerable bottle variation amongst the 2006’s and in particular the 1998’s (being the only wine under cork). The 2006 bottle on the writer's table displayed a well-developed nose but there was a shortness in the fruit with a consequent more ‘angular’ and less balanced palate which was dominated by tannins and acidity – but it was nevertheless still quite drinkable. Other tables fared better with their examples and the fruit and overall balance of these wines held out well.
The 1998’s were on the whole disappointing and should have been consumed some time ago. The writer's table bottle was particularly poor as the wine displayed fading, stewy oxidised fruit and lacked structure.
All wines were 13.5% alc.
CHEESE
The cheese was a traditional Tasmanian clothbound semi-hard cows milk cheddar in a 16kg wheel from Pyengana
Pyengana Cheddar is made by hand in north-eastern Tasmania using fresh Tassie milk from nearby farms and their own modest herd of Holsteins. Building on a dairying history of 130 years in the region, Pyengana Dairy has evolved to combine the best of traditional techniques and modern innovation to create their award-winning farmhouse cheddar.
One such innovation is that the Pyengana cows are able to decide their own milking frequency by taking themselves on a short walk to the dairy and through a milking robot, before being rewarded with a back rub. (I think a few of the members would be up for that; come to think of it, maybe that’s where a couple of them disappeared to after lunch!)
Apart from this robotic milking and pasteurisation of the milk, Pyengana Cheddar is made according to traditional, handmade techniques that date back to the turn of the century. The curds are formed using a technique known as ‘stirring’ and after hooping, the wheels are clothbound and pressed. These are then matured for up to 12 months on pine shelves at the dairy where the natural microflora plays a crucial role.
The symbiotic relationship of the developing surface moulds and cultures helps to develop a fine-textured, crumbly body, along with aromas reminiscent of summer grass, herbs and honey, and a long, sweet and nutty flavour.
This was all topped off with a 1962 birthday Armagnac from Roger Prior.
As one member remarked, how lucky are we to be living in this country at this juncture in time.
As a nod to Steve’s Australiana theme, a word from that wordsmith Austen Taayshus
Sitting at home last Sunday morning, me mate Boomer rang
Said he was having a few people around for a barbie, said he might cook a burro or two
I said, "Sounds great, will Walla be there?"
He said, "Yeah and Vejja might come too"
So I said to the wife, "Do you wanna go, Anna?"
She said, "I'll go if Ding goes"
So I said, "What'll we do about Nulla?"
He said, "Nulla bores me to tears, leave him at home"
We got to the party about two and walked straight out the kitchen to put some booze in the fridge
And you wouldn't believe it, there's Boomer's wife Warra sitting there trying to plait a puss!
Now, I don't like to speak ill of Warra, but I was shocked; I mean how much can a koala bear?
So I grabbed a beer, flashed me wanger at her and went out and joined the party
Pretty soon Ayers rocks in and things really started jumping
This Indian girl Marsu turns up, dying to go to the toilet, but she couldn't find it
I said to me mate Al, "Hey, where can Marsu pee, Al?"
He said "She can go out back with the fellas, she's probably seen a cock or too"
Well just then Warra comes out of the kitchen with a few drinks for everybody
Fair dinkum, you've never seen a cooler barmaid
I grabbed a beer and said, "Thanks Warra, tah!"
A couple of queens land at the party, one smelling pretty strongly of aftershave
One of them sat down next to me and I turned to him and I said, "Ya know mate, you reek of Stockade!"
It was a really hot day; Oscar felt like a swim
He said to Ina, "Do you want a have a dip in the river, Ina?"
She said, "I haven't got my cozzy, Oscar!"
Well Bo says, "Come in starkers, what'll they care?"
Ina says, "What, without so much as a thread, Bo?"
"Ah, perish the thought! Has Yucum been in yet?"
Well a few of the blokes decided to play some cricket
Boomer says "Why doesn't Wom bat?"
"Yeah, and let Tenter field"
He said I should have a bowl, but I was too out of it to play cricket so I suggested a game of cards
I said to Liptus, "Wanna game of euchre, Liptus?"
He said, "There's no point mate, Darr wins every time"
Well Bill said he'd like a smoke
Nobody knew where the dope was stashed
I said, "I think Marie knows"
But I was just spinning a bit of a yarn
Barry pulls a joint out of his pocket
Bill says "Great, Barry, a reefer!, What is it mate?"
"Noosa Heads of course. Me mate Ada laid 'em on me"
And it was a great joint too, it blue Mountains away and his three sisters!
Well I thought I'd roll one meself, I said, "Chuck us the Tallyho, Bart!"
He said "They're out on the lawn, Ceston, can you get 'em for us?"
Bernie says, "It's okay mate, she's apples, I'll get em for ya"
Just then Alice springs into action, starts to pack Bill a bong
And you wouldn't believe it, the bong's broken
I said "Lord how!"
"Hey man," somebody says, "will a didgery do?"
I said "Hummmmm, mummmm, mummmmm, mummmmm, maybe it'll have to"
I look in the corner and there's Bass sitting there, not getting into it, not getting out of it
I said, "What, is Bass straight or something?"
Boomer says, "As a matter a fact mate, he's a cop"
I said, "You're joking mate, a cop? I'm getting outta here. Let's go, Anna"
She said, "No way, I'm hangin round till Gum leaves. Besides, I don't wanna leave Jack around a party on his own
Have you seen him? I think he's trying to crack on to Wumba; he's already tried to mount Isa
And he'll definitely try to lead you astray, Liana!"
Thank you and goodnight!
Last line stolen from the great David Letterman sign off
16 November 2021 - CoTD Hal Epstein
Food review by Robert Wiggins and wine review by Richard Gibson
Doubleheader with a home run.
We all rocked up to another full house; the word had gotten around and queues began to form for places at the tables.
The twin bats of our resident Cooking Maestro, Bill Alexiou-Hucker and the wily old fox himself, Hal Epstein (whose resume of culinary delights spans almost every type of edible animal, and arguably inedible, did a double backflip twist, presenting a totally different take on his meal; completely vegetarian. (Lots of small animals out there were breathing a sigh of relief, especially the obscure ones).
However, this is where Kill Bill stepped in with an absolutely perfectly cooked slice of sirloin on the plate, in addition to Hal’s vegetarian fiesta.
CANAPES
We opened with three very interesting canapes.
There was a yellow (turmeric) pickled cauliflower, which was quite different, but extremely zesty and tasty, followed by some mini zucchini muffins and rounded off with the good old guacamole with tomatoes mixed in plus corn chips. The guacamole had two variants; hot or normal.
This was washed down with both the Seppelt Drumborg Riesling 2016 & Timo Mayer Doktor (Kabinett Trocken) Riesling 2016. Both pleasant wines, but nothing outstanding with either.
The Drumborg Riesling is part of Seppelt's premium Drumborg Vineyard range and is sourced from the old, cool-climate Drumborg vineyard in Victoria’s southwest region.
The nose displayed attractive developed lemon/lime citrus followed by hints of apple and steely minerality. The lemon and lime flavours continued on the palate which displayed considerable fruit purity, balance and length with good acid levels.
Timo Mayer is a respected Yarra Valley producer with German origins. The Doktor (Kabinett Trocken) Riesling however is sourced from vines grown on the family vineyard near Stuttgart in southern Germany. The nose displayed lean, clean lemon citrus characters – still a very fresh wine with racy acidity. The palate showed excellent fruit purity with lime and apple flavours, and clean minerality. It is a polished wine with good length and balance. The room was divided on which was the better wine but both went very well with the canapes.
MAIN MEAL
For the main, Hal presented a delightful combination of a three coloured capsicum/ eggplant stack, consisting of very lightly cooked pickled capsicum, eggplant, caper berries, mixed with buffalo mozzarella cheese.
For his part, Bill had cooked up three large sides of sirloin that were perfectly cooked and immaculately sliced in a perfect uniform manner; when asked how he did this the answer was very simple; Rob in the kitchen sliced them; we are very fortunate to have him in the kitchen to both assist and occasionally lead our cooking fraternity.
The wines with the mains were;
Lindemans Bin 1100 HV Shiraz 2011 and Tyrrells Steven Shiraz 2011 (both under Stelvin)
The grapes for the Lindemans wine are sourced from the original Ben Ean estate vineyard, matured in old French oak for 18 months. With still deep crimson colour, the nose displayed a richness of (only slightly) developed cherry/raspberry fruits followed by a medium-bodied spicy, velvety palate with soft well-integrated tannins and excellent length. This wine (13.5% alc) remains in great shape and should develop nicely.
The Stephen’s Shiraz (13.00% alc) is sourced from both old Tyrrells and former Stephens family vines and aged 12 months in larger format French oak barrels (2500L & 500L). The nose displayed rich dark cherry and raspberry notes and spicy vanilla oak. The palate was medium-bodied with spicy red/blackberry fruit, biggish oak/tannins and bright acidity (still a little dominant at this stage) and excellent length. It will benefit from further ageing. The consensus was that the Lindemans was perhaps better drinking on the day insofar as it showed better balance at this stage.
Saltram Mamre Brook Shiraz 2012 and Saltram No 1 Shiraz 2010
The Mamre Brook (15% alc) is made from grapes grown in NE Barossa valley and the higher Eden Valley and is matured in large French oak (old and new) for 16 months. It showed aromas of dried, rich plummy red and blackberries, spice and liquorice. On the palate, it was medium to full-bodied with ripe, intense dark fruit flavours, big tannins and high acidity. At this stage, it is not yet in balance and needs time.
The No 1 (14.5% alc) is the premium Saltram Shiraz and is sourced from old vines grown on the valley floor near Angaston. It displayed a rich plum and mulberry nose with spice, cassis and chocolate notes. On the palate, it was full-bodied, opulent with savoury, velvety well-integrated tannins. Balanced and complex, with excellent length, it was the clear favourite of this bracket. Both wines went exceptionally well with the cheese.
(Wine report is provided by Richard Gibson)
CHEESE
James presented a cows milk, semi-hard, cloth-ashed cheddar in a 2kg wheel from Calendar, a Maffra Victorian cheese company.
Maffra Cheese Company produces an award-winning range of Australian farmhouse cheeses in the style of well-known British territorials.
Head Cheese Maker and Owner, Ferial Zekiman, considers herself a farmer first and foremost, as she believes that ‘without great milk, there cannot be great cheese’. Her herd of Holstein-Friesian cows graze on the lush rye and clover pastures that surround her dairy located in Central Gippsland.
To create their flagship Cloth-Ashed Cheddar, the traditional process of ‘cheddaring’ is used to remove excess moisture from the curds before they are scooped into large hoop moulds and wrapped in ash-dusted cloth. Instead of being rubbed with animal lard like their British counterparts.
These wheels of cheddar rely on the vegetable ash to suppress undesirable mould development and locked-in moisture as they age at the farm in temperature-controlled maturation rooms, ensuring they remain vegetarian-friendly. They are also Halal-certified.
Ferial grades the cheeses throughout ageing of up to 24 months with only the very best wheels receiving a hand-stencilled logo on the dark clothbound rind if they display a firm yet crumbly texture, sweet flavour and long finish.
We finished with the Society coffee and everyone agreed it was an excellent meal.
9 November - CoTD Mark Bradford
Review by Roger Wiggins
How would you describe Mark’s meal today? I would sum it up in one word: Courageous.
After the meal that he served earlier in the year, which came under an enormous amount of criticism, many people would have just either given up or retreated licking their wounds. Not Mark, he took on board the comments and stepped right up again to bat.
The meal and canapes this time were in plentiful supply and a great assortment of dishes. Very well-done Mark for your enthusiasm and vigour in your work today.
The canapes consisted of two sorts of small micro quiches some with spinach and cheese and the other an anti-pasta mix, with chopped olives and sundried tomatoes. There was also a large quiche lorraine which came out piping hot. The smaller micro quiches were a little bit underdone, resulting in being a little chewy, but quite tasty.
Mark being the mathematician that he is, called these his pi dishes.
Mark also served up a corn fritter with a tomato chutney.
The aperitif wines were a 2002 Jacobs Creek Steingarten Riesling from the Barossa and a 2008 Tyrrells Stevens from the Hunter.
One of the members, Phil Laffer was actually the wine maker for the Steingarten. His discussion on both the wine, the way it was made and the style, plus the history of the vineyard and the saving of the old vines from being pulled out was fascinating. We were also treated to a technical discussion on the evolution of the Stelvin closure. How the early caps, being like a top hat and the seals being only on the top of the bottle were prone to popping with a bit of mishandling. They were later changed to a more rounded top that extended the seal, providing better protection for the wines. We are very fortunate to have as members in our Society people like Phil who not only know the history of the wines and makers, but also interesting information on the technical nature of wines.
Both wines were extremely fresh, especially the Steingarten, being 19 years old. Phil thought that it was now at a stage where it would not get better, however there were comments that it would probably be in good shape for the next 5-7 years. It is fantastic that Chilly is now going through the cellar to bring these wines to the table that should be consumed now, rather than saving them for a special occasion that may result in the wines being past their prime.
For the main, Mark served up two chicken thighs per person, well cooked, wrapped in roasted prosciutto and baked, that had a subtle lemon, cream and parsley sauce. They were stuffed with gorgonzola and basil pesto, scrumptious with lots of flavour. The couscous patty also had a small amount of feta and spring onions embedded within and a couple of very plump asparagus resting on top with a green pea puree and basil leaves. The patty was a bit dry, however it was still very tasty. (note; the plural of asparagus is not asparagi, unless you are speaking Latin and as today was more of a French than Italian theme, we will stick with asparagus).
This time, rather than there being a paucity of food, there was more than enough for all of the members, with many not being able to finish their meal as they were “too stuffed to jump”.
The wines accompanying the meal were a 2009 Italian Chianti; Marchese Antinori and a NSW Orange Sangiovese from Fossil Hill. They both went well with the chicken, however the Classico took the line honours. It initially had a bit of a smell, which evaporated, leaving an elegant spicy wine. The Sangiovese was too high in alcohol and the vines not old enough for this wine.
These were followed with a 2014 Cabernet Franc Terre a Terre from the Crayeres Vineyard and a 2010 Sancerre Les Baronnes from Henri Bourgeois. Both an interesting choice for the cheese, however it is hard going from reds during the meal to finish with a white, probably just a personal taste. It was suggested that Cabernet Franc is the father of Cab Sav… not sure who the mother is.
James supplied Iggy’s bread; two different types; a sour dough and a rye. They went extremely well with the meal and the cheese. The cheese was a surprise to many of the members, as although they had tasted this cheese in the past, this version was made from goat milk. It was a D’affinois Florette, from Rhone-Alpes France.
The cheese was a soft, surface ripened pure goats’ cheese made near Lyons, France using a special micro filtration technique called “ultra-filtration”, that concentrates the rich solids in the goat’s milk ensuring a very smooth texture and delicious rounded creamy flavour.
Ultra-filtration is a technique that occurs before the cheese making process. Pasteurised milk is forced through a series of membranes, extracting protein, and removing water, concentrating all other desirable components. This results in the production of consistent, nutritionally rich cheeses that have a silkier mouth feel and creamy subtle flavour.
The numbers for lunch were down and there is the ability for many more members to attend. I would suggest that although we now seem to be out of lockdown, you never know when we could have another imposition placed upon us, so get out now while you can, as there are only a few lunches left before the Christmas break.
“Truth is ever to be found in simplicity, and not in the multiplicity and confusion of things.” – Isaac Newton. A simple, honest meal done very well!
Congratulations Mark, your redemption meal was a great success.
26 October 2021 - Merv Peacock
Food review by Robert Wiggins and wine review by Richard Gibson
Hmmmm Beef Cheeks.. brave man Merv
Well, what can one say… those little suckers have been in and out of the freezer more often than Frosty the snowman, due to lockdowns and they didn’t even have freezer burn.
First to the canapes;
3 canapes were served;
The lightly fried Crabcakes, with crabmeat, capsicum, spring onion and egg, were served with a Salsa dip that was a mix of coriander, mint, chilli and a little coconut cream.
These were followed by an orange soup; there was some debate over what the vegetable was; pumpkin, kumara, but it was sweet potato, with a bit of bacon and onion. This had an accompanying Chipotle to give some heat, which Merv informed us was made with his son’s imported dried jalapenos from Mexico.
The last was Curry puffs consisting of beef mince, peas and a curry mix with mango salsa.
Merv also did all of the canapes by himself, quite an achievement.
The aperitif wines were a Linderman’s Bin 1350 Reserve Semillon 2013 under screwcap. This was largely from an original Ben Ean vineyard and released as part of Lindy’s “Regional series”.. featuring a small volume release reserve wine.
The colour was Pale green, the Nose was developed with lemon/grapefruit and zesty and the palette was finely textured, complex and medium weight. This wine was showing an attractive toasty aged character. It had a long finish with good acidity and an alcohol level of 12%.
This was matched with another Lindemans; a Bin 1150 Reserve Semillon 2017 also under screwcap.
The colour was pale green/clear and the nose was also developed with grassy / herb, smoke and citrus. The palate was light medium-bodied, green herbs, almonds with some complexity and retaining the freshness of the fruit. However, it lacked persistence of flavour and had a clean citrus finish.
On to the Mains;
We were not really sure what was going to happen with the cheeks, approaching them with some level of trepidation, given the unfortunate serving earlier in the year. However it turned out to be a very hearty meal, with plenty of mash, and the cheeks of ample portions falling apart in your dish, slathered in gravy.. just the thing for a coolish afternoon.
The cheeks were cooked in multiple La Creuset, with 6-7 cheeks at a time for 5 hours. The stock used was a mix of beef stock, red wine, sweet paprika, onion, celery and garlic.
The mash was Dutch cream potatoes which were silky, buttery and completely artery clogging with a serving of perfectly cooked al dente beans.
Some of the comments were that it was like “pub food”, as the presentation was not beautiful, especially with the large amounts of gravy hiding the food, however, it was also pointed out that without that wonderful and copious amount of the sauce, it just would not have been such a tasty dish. There was not very much in the way of veggies.. this was definitely a carnivores’ meal.
The table wines were excellent, especially at our table.. lucky for once! There was some level of bottle variation.
The Houghtons Gladstones Cab Sav 2005, was generally picked as the best overall wine for the day.
It was sourced from a single vineyard in the Margaret River (probably with a large mix of fruit from Great Southern). The colour was a dark purple hue, the nose blueberry/mulberry with some bay leaf and mint and toasty oak. The Palate was an attractive cassis/plum fruit, with a tobacco character. This was a very balanced wine with fully integrated tannins and holding up very well. The alcohol content was 14.5% but did not feel like this.
The Penfolds Bin 407 Cab Sav 2004, which is inspired by the wonderful bin 707, offers similar varietal definitions and structure but at a more reasonable price. It is sourced from muli-regions and matured 12 months in a combination of new and old oak. The colour was dark, the nose restrained, with subtle dark fruit and chocolate menthol notes. The palate was dark berry fruit on a mid-palate, with some greenness. Summed up it was a medium weight balanced with integrated tannins, however not overly complex and reasonably one dimensional. There was significant bottle variation. This wine for all of its promise was on the whole reasonably disappointing, especially given its price. The alcohol was 14%.
The Yalumba Signature Cab Sav 2006 is an iconic Australian blend. It is sourced from Barossa and Eden valley vines. It was matured in new and used oak for 22 months and handpicked with wild yeast fermentation.
The colour was a black crimson hue and the palate had dark chocolate, blueberry and black currant notes. It was a full-bodied wine with good intensity of flavour, elegant and balanced with fine integrated tannins. The alcohol was 13.5 and along with the Houghtons, it was one of the 2 best reds on the day.
Wolf Blass Black Label Cab Sav 2005. This classic Wolf Blass bled was sourced from Maclaren Vale and Langhorne Creek fruit and aged in new and used American and French oak for 24 months. The colour was black and the nose was opulent, fruit and cassis with oaky tobacco and dried herbs and pepper notes. The palate was intensely sweet black fruits and cab dominant out front and shiraz/pepper in the back of the palate. It was textured, balanced with integrated fine tannins that were a bit big and acidic, with a long dry finish. The alcohol, bless dear old Wolf’s tastes was a big 15.3%. The fruit was surprisingly well balanced
In addition, as there were 2 tables of 10, a Chateau L’Enclose 2000 Pomerol also made its way to these tables. These were drinking exceptionally well.
The finishing note was a couple of bottles of 5-year-old McWilliams Tawny Port.
The cheese was a traditional clothbound Pyengana Cheddar, made by hand in north-eastern Tasmania using fresh Tassie milk from nearby farms and their own modest herd of Holsteins. The symbiotic relationship of the developing surface moulds and cultures helped to develop a fine-textured, crumbly body, along with aromas reminiscent of summer grass, herbs and honey, and a long, sweet and nutty flavour.
This cheese was very popular, with a scramble at the end to obtain the takeaways of the leftovers.
All in all, a great way to kick off the return to lunches and the buzz in the room was excellent.
We look forward to many more lunches now that restrictions are easing
** Note that the wine reviews were courtesy of Richard Gibson.
22 June - CoTD James Hill
Food review by James Tinslay
James Hill, one of the Society’s favourite chefs, was in the kitchen once again. He was assisted by Paul Thorne and of course the wonderful crew in the REX kitchen.
We once again treated to the deeply flavoured duck consomme from Paul Thorne. This is been enjoyed at many lunches, but on this occasion, there was a twist. In the past, Paul had used orange zest to top the consommé but this but on this occasion, he transformed the zest into a liquid and when placed in an atomiser sprayed the orange zest liquid into the consomme cup. It was wonderfully luscious.
Next up from James were three types of sashimi, kingfish, tuna and Mount Cook salmon from NZ. All three were served on spoons with a dressing of pickled ginger and tamari. Comments were around freshness and zing.
Finally for starters was a stunning looking rice paper roll, which contained an amazing number of ingredients including pickled carrot, betel leaf, mint, coriander, garlic chives, rice vermicelli, prawn, BBQ pork and Peking duck sauce. With rice paper being so see-through, it provides the opportunity to gaze at all the ingredients, especially the stunning view of the prawn against the rice paper. Speaking of rolling rice paper with its fragile nature, James was grateful for the assistance of the new REX manager, Kylie, who had spent ten years in Vietnam and was able to use her experience with Vietnamese food to assist prepare the rolls.
The rice paper rolls were delightful with a mixture of textures and flavours.
The main came to table and was exquisite to the eye. The protein on the plate was duck breast which had been seared and had developed a wonderful char on the skin. Accompanying the duck was a mould of rice, pickled red cabbage with ginger and chilli (topped with toasted sesame seeds) and Chinese broccoli (gai lan) with oyster sauce. The range of textures and colours received many favourable comments from the floor. An excellent dish.
James Healey was on cheese and provided us with Capitoul Tomme De Chevre Caprinelle. This goat cheese is typical of the cooked mountain cheeses of the Pyrenees that have been made for centuries. It is made only in small batches from fresh goats’ milk during Spring and Autumn when the goats can graze on the rich mountain pastures. It is quite rare and to ensure supply our provider places orders at least a year in advance. It showed a smooth nutty texture that had developed a slightly sweet caramel flavour. Some commentators picked it for Ossau Iraty.
The cheese was served with cut pears with an orange-based dressing.
Another wonderful lunch from James Hill.
15 June 2021 - Paul Thorne
8 June 2021 - Greg Sproule
Food review by Robert Wiggins and wine review by Richard Gibson
Food
3 up, 3 down, well hit, good game, comfort food for a cold drizzly winter’s day. A low turnout, possibly due to the inclement weather.
Starters
Well for any of you who follow the largest religion in the USA, baseball, the Boston Red Sox are known as the comeback kids of the major league. Today, for the first time in over a decade, they swept their arch-rivals, the NY Yankees.
Well, we had our own comeback kid in the kitchen today, the ever-efficient Greg Sproule.
At one time a few years back, when Greg was the Food Master, it seemed that he did a majority of the cooking for the Society lunches.
So today was Greg’s turn to clean sweep us with his version of a Boston chowder variant, direct from the boondocks of Milperra.
Greg started out with a standard gravlax, with the salmon soaked in Bombay Gin and tears. Thoughtfully Greg used both a biscuit base for some of the blinis, as well as a cucumber base for those who did not or could not consume the bread.
We had an ever-reliable Tyrrells 2014 Belford and the entry-level Leo Burling’s Riesling, which we all were given a bottle for the table to consume with the clam chowder. Richard will be providing the wine review in detail.
Chilly was absent and his table notes that he supplies were greatly missed.
Now, there is the noteworthy Boston or New England clam chowder and then the Manhattan clam chowder. The latter is made with tomatoes, not as creamy, while the Boston clam chowder, although not as creamy as the San Fran Pier 39 variant, does have a roux base and cream.
The pippies or small clams were cooked to perfection, (too much cooking will turn them into a rubbery compound) the array of vegies were beautifully al dente. It was described by one member as being light and vibrant.
The bowls were swept clean with the accompanying bread.
Main
The main was a seafood risotto.
The accompanying wines were a Coldstreams Hill Pinot and a 2009 Chianti. There was a great deal of discussion at our table on which wine went better with the food. Personally, I preferred the Chianti prior to the food, but the Coldstream with the food, as the sweetness was a good balance to the lemon and salt in the risotto. Others thought exactly the opposite.
The risotto all came together with tarragon, fennel and lemon, to give it a very refreshing and interesting twist. Possibly a touch too salty for some, but the lemon countered the salt.
The squid was extremely delicate and tasty, as Greg used a pressure cooker to cook and tenderise the cephalopods.
The cheese was a semi hard cows milk, Latteria Perenzin Di Capra In Foglia Di Noce
Made in the alpine foothills of Italy by Slow Food-approved producer Latteria Perenzin, Formajo Ciock has been inspired by the centuries-old custom of hiding cheeses in fermenting grape must to conceal them from raiders in time of war... or from the master’s accounting ledger!
Formajo Ciock is adapted from a traditional Montasio recipe and then steeped in grape must for 10 days causing the grape residue to cling to the characteristically dark rind and help to give the cheese a slightly piquant flavour. Sweet and fragrant with notes of ripe fruits.
The two Aussie wines with the cheese were both 2012s. The Yalumba Cigar and the Saltram Mamre Brook. Again, there are those who love or hate these big Aussie red wines. Personally, I found that the Cigar was a deep luscious wine that went very well with the cheese.
The coffee was the house blend. There were a few remarks on the table on how we miss Spencer and his deep knowledge and love of all thing’s caffeine.
All in all, a very good meal; not 5 stars but it was never pretending to be. Greg always cooks well (possibly with the exception of a prior goat mishap). You know that when Greg cooks, it will always be reliable, tasty and great to eat… well done, your culinary skills in the kitchen have been missed.
Next week will be a mixed lunch, with Paul Thorne slaving away in the kitchen. Without blowing his own horn, it has always been a great meal when Paul puts his culinary skills to the test and the bookings are filling fast, so if you wish to secure a spot at the table, you have better move fast. Nick, who in Chilly’s absence has been gathering the wine, has promised some great wines, so this is definitely not a meal to be missed.
Wine
The wines featured a Hunter Semillon and a Clare Valley Riesling (served with the gravlax starter), an Aussie Pinot and an Italian Sangiovese with the main (lightly textured Boston chowder) and a Coonawarra Cabernet and Barossa Shiraz served with the cheese.
Tyrrells ‘Belford’ Semillon 2014
Grown on old (Elliot family) vines, hand-picked and lightly crushed with minimal time on yeast. The wine displayed toasty lemon/lime citrus aromas and full-bodied, toasty citrus fruit richness on the palate with crisp mineralized acidity on the finish.
Overall it was a well-balanced, textured wine showing attractive developed characters and considerable depth of fruit purity and length. It went well with the Gravlax.
Leo Buring Clare Riesling 2014
This wine is the entry-level riesling in the Leo Buring Clare range.
The nose opened with attractive zesty, citrus aromatic aromas and toasty, grassy notes. On the palate, we saw developed pure fruit flavours, crisp, fresh acidity and minerality. A simple, reliable, racy well-made wine with sufficient fruit depth and plenty of acidity to balance well with the textured chowder – probably the better of the two whites with the chowder, owing to the acidity.
Coldstream Hills Pinot Noir 2015
Sourced from low-yielding Yarra Valley vineyards, the wine experienced a variety of handling (including some hand-picked and some whole bunch) and fermentation techniques and is matured in a mix of new and old oak barrels for 8-9 months.
The nose displayed cherry/red berry fruit aromas (with some stewy plummy notes), spice and smokey characters. On the palate, there were clean ripe fruit red berry/plum flavours, spice and integrated fine tannins with decent acidity on the finish.
Overall a smooth, medium-bodied wine drinking very well now and was a reasonable match with the red wine squid risotto but perhaps carrying a little too much acidity for the subtle delicate flavours of the risotto. Alc 13.5%
Isole e Olena Chianti Classico 2009
Grown in vineyards on the western flank of the Chianti Classico region of Tuscany, the Isole e Olena CC is a blend of 80% Sangiovese, 15% Canialo Nero and 5% Syrah. It is aged for 12 months in a mix of large (4000L and 2700L) casks and 225L barrels.
The nose showed developed, savoury, red fruits (cherry) and pepper notes. The palate was medium-bodied and revealed layers of ripe dark fruits and well-integrated tannins plus aged tobacco/spice notes – in summary, a developed balanced wine still retaining its savoury fruit intensity and complexity. It was generally regarded as the best match to the risotto. Alc 13.5%
Yalumba Cigar Cabernet 2012
Grown on 25-year-old vines in Coonawarra, the Cigar was aged in French oak casks and 225L barrels (28% new) for 22 months.
Unfortunately one of the 3 bottles was slightly cork-tainted. The better bottles saw ripe back berry fruits and chocolate/liquorice characters (plus cedar). The palate had dense, rich fruit flavours and spicy cedar notes and smooth, polished tannins.
The Cigar Cabernet was an easy-drinking, balanced wine showing good depth of fruit and a long finish – it was regarded as the better match with the piquant, semi-hard cows milk cheese. Alc 14%
Saltram Mamre Brook Shiraz 2012
Sourced from grapes from the Barossa and Eden valley, the Mamre Brook was matured in large (2800L) casks and 225L barrels for 16 months. The wine showed red and blackberry aromas on the nose with spicy vanilla oak notes. On the palate, the wine was full-bodied with ripe dark fruit (not jammy), soft tannins and creamy vanilla characters with lively acidity and considerable length on the finish.
Overall a reasonably well constructed Barossa/Eden valley Shiraz with ample fruit intensity although perhaps not completely in balance at this point. Alc 15%
1 June 2021 - CoTD Amosh (Sous chef at REX)
Food review by James Hill and wine review by Richard Gibson
Food
In the kitchen today was Amosh KC sous chef at our club and his food was Nepalese themed. This was our monthly ‘marquee chef’ a great initiative of our Food Master Bill Alexiou-Hucker. If you know anyone who may be suitable for cooking for us Bill would appreciate being contacted
Starters.
We started with ‘Panipuri’ - Panipuri is a street snack that is extremely popular in India, Bangladesh, Pakistan, and Nepal. Small in size, it consists of a hollow puri that is fried until crispy, then stuffed with a combination of flavoured water called pani, tamarind chutney, chaat masala, potatoes, onions, mango powder, chillis and chickpeas. It came to us today as a perfect example of puri, crisp, full of flavour and texture with a little residual heat on the palate.
Jhinga Soup - a wholesome cup made from stock, tamarind, prawns, pineapple, bean sprouts and seasoning. Wow, this was some soup, made a day before it also included coriander and cumin seeds and lemon. It is cooked like stock or bisque then strained. It was spicy, a good heat not overpowering our palates, intense prawn flavour leaving a great mouthfeel.
Chicken tandoori rolls made with lemon, yoghurt coriander stems chopped herbs onion and cumin seeds. Perfectly fried, easy to eat, chock full of flavour another standout canapé.
Comments from members that these were some of the best starters we’ve had at our lunches. Big bold flavours, authentic and perfectly executed.
Main
Our main course today was ‘Grandmas Nepalese chicken tarkari’ (chicken curry) with a good balance of flavour and texture. The chicken was moist with a mild heat that came from black salt and Sichuan pepper
Accompaniments
A potato condiment cooked with tomato, onion and Sichuan pepper that added heat and a smoky flavour to the dish.
Homemade roti served crisp and warm, perfect for mopping up the wonderful sauce that accompanied our curry The chicken and sauce were cooked separately. The dish was served with Basmati rice.
Again high praise from the floor for this dish for its authenticity and originality, a wonderful combination of big and bold flavours.
Cheese
Cheeses today were selected by the REX kitchen and served with crisp biscuits and grain bread.
Bruny island C2 raw cow’s milk
This was the first raw milk cheese in Australia (2009) and being unpasteurised, is the purest expression of the cheesemakers craft.
C2 is the sort of cheese found throughout the mountains of France and northern Italy. A classic cooked curd cheese made in a traditional large form. C2 matures for 6 - 12 months, during which time it develops a sweet aroma and a mildly nutty flavour. The rind is wiped every week to encourage the surface bacteria that provide this cheese with much of its robust integrity.
James Healey, our Cheesemaster, said he’s been trying to get the cheese for our Society and this is the first time we’ve seen it presented.
Maffra cloth aged cheddar
Our second cheese was the Maffra cloth-aged cheddar from the heart of Gippsland for our lunch today. Maffra has always been enjoyed when it has been served previously and today was no different. The cheddar is matured to an optimal age of between 15 to 24 months and had a soft, crumbly texture with a long smooth palate.
The cheese course was served with quince and grapes.
Wine
The wines featured two Hunter Semillons (served with the Nepalese street food starters and superb Jhinga soup), one Cotes du Rhone GSM and a Coonawarra Shiraz served with the chicken curry main course and two Aussie Shiraz served with the cheese.
Thomas ‘Braemore’ Semillon 2017 and 2015
Grown on the iconic Braemore vineyard (50 yr old vines), the wine displayed characteristic Semillon lemon/lime citrus aromas and toasty, full-bodied citrus fruit on the palate (with good varietal purity) and high acidity on the finish. Of the two, the 2015 was showing more development and was better-balanced showing complexity with less acid dominance than the 2017 (which is a biggish wine in need of more time). Both wines went well with the spicy seafood starters and chicken tandoori rolls with the higher acid-driven 2017 perhaps handling the complexity of the food better.
Guigal Cotes du Rhone 2010
A gsm blend (50% shiraz, 40% Grenache and 10% Mourvedre), matured in American and French oak.
The nose showed developed ripe blackberry fruit and pepper. On the palate, the wine was fully developed with attractive soft tannins and hints of vanilla oak but at 10 years old now lacks complexity and is unlikely to improve – nevertheless an attractive easy-drinking, reliable wine with just enough mid-palate fruit depth and acidity to balance well with the complex curry. Alc 14%
Charles Melton “Grains of Paradise” Shiraz 2009
Aged on lees for 24 months in a mix of seasoned American and French oak (60/40), the wine reflects Melton’s unique style of winemaking.
At 11 years old, there was still some fruit richness and fragrance on the nose, with some attractive sweet vanilla /oak characters but regrettably, it remains a bit too jammy/overripe – perhaps not everyone’s idea of “paradise” in a glass.
The wine was better on the palate, medium-bodied with some complexity (with a depth of fruit showing) and actually drank reasonably well with the curry – however it was still “hot’ and tannic on the finish. Alc 14%
Wynn’s Coonawarra Shiraz 2009
Wynn’s Coonawarra entry-level revealed attractive blackberry and spice characters on the nose, a medium-bodied, developed dark berry and plummy (but not jammy) richness on the palate with spice and cedar notes. The tannins were dry and well integrated.
Overall an attractive, balanced (albeit not complex) wine with good length drinking exceptionally well now. It was the better match with the curry. Alc 13.5%
Tyrrells Stephen Shiraz 2009
Sourced from old (50 yr+) vines and matured in old large (2500L and 500L casks), the wine shows dark red and blackberry aromas on the nose with spicy vanilla oak notes. On the palate, the wine displayed attractive, pretty (but still biggish) fruit, toasty oak notes and savoury, well-integrated tannins with lively acidity and considerable length on the finish.
Overall an elegant finely textured and balanced Hunter Shiraz (perhaps a leaner but no less complex style of shiraz than the more traditional Tyrrells shiraz styles (Vat8/9 , 4 acres)).
In the absence of a 4th bottle of the Tyrrells, one table was served a Lindemans HR Shiraz 1403 (2014) – a lovely big fruit wine with a refined tannin structure but not quite yet in balance - still a baby that needs more time.
All the cheese wines went well with the robust cow's milk cheeses
25 May 2021 - CoTD Mark Bradford
Food review by Robert Wiggins and wine review by Richard Gibson
Food Review
Hmm, well lunch today was a Dickens of a meal. I have been requested to provide an exec summary for those that do not or have not the time for my long missives.
Exec Summary;
“Less is more” and “Please sir, can I have some more and not another subway”, accompanied by several cold-climate Aussie shiraz.
Now for the real story, worthy of a Charles Dickens novel. The one thing that was not missing from this meal was bread!
As good old Charlie wrote regarding Oliver, many years ago; “Please sir can I have some more?”
The 3 canapes were accompanied by a 2019 Tyrrells HDV Semillon, which was very well balanced and appropriate with the canapes. This was a good wine with length, lemon, lime and fresh fruit.
The tasty fish cakes made an impression and the pork balls were dipped luxuriously in a hoisin sauce and were delicious, but prone to falling apart on the serving plate.
The prawn wrapped in a deep-fried crispy light batter was also tasty, again as long as you were careful and able to get it into your mouth without decorating the carpet with the seafood, as many did. Good thing we aren’t paying for the cleaning bill. As Mark said, “the vacuum cleaner was his best friend”!
The second white was a 2019 Italian Langhe Favorita from Alessandria, a very different type of grape than most of us were used to. Nice palate, but not exceptional. There are over 300 indigenous grapes residing in this area.
It was slightly reminiscent of a sweetish sherry.
Lunch was called and we expectantly sat down for the main course. Imagine our surprise when we were greeted by a very large bun, encompassing most of the plate and a very small serving of the meat and veg.
Billed as the recreation of Dien Bien Fu, this time the French Bread won as not enough Vietnamese food arrived. Mark, remarked that his local Vietnamese bakery let him down with the “baguette”.
A common comment was where is the main meal? I must admit that I have never had a subway lunch at the Society, so I suppose there is a first for everything. The idea was to take the small portions on the plate, rip the baguette in half and voila, decorate your baguette with the meal in a true subway fashion.
The food was very tasty, however, there was really only enough for a third of the baguette to be filled.
I think that somewhere along the line, Mark’s slide rule slipped when calculating out the portions that were required. This was measured right down to the last gram, as there certainly was not enough of the main meal for everyone to be satisfied. Indeed, we had an unplanned extra member show up, and there wasn’t even enough food for the chef, who had to settle for a steak, rather than the food on offer. Second helpings were certainly not in order as the pot had already been scraped bare, with the first go around. There was a lot of scratching of heads on what to eat next, a bit like a hobbit’s meal, wondering what was for afternoon tea whilst consuming the lunch. A few of the elves found themselves afterwards in a Spanish establishment sating their appetite and quenching their thirst.
As this was a wine tasting, the six cool-climate shiraz’s were already poured.
The French cheese was a Secret de Scey (like a Morbier) with an ash wash through it. Very creamy for a semi-hard cheese. This was accompanied by more bread and some crackers. Notes from the importer:
Australian regulations prohibit the importation of the beautiful raw
milk cheese Morbier. Cheesemaker Jean Perrin has created a
pasteurized version that’s so good, it’s hard to tell the difference
from the original. His is called, Secret de Scey.
This cheese was originally made from two milkings. After the curds
were set using morning milk a layer of charcoal and salt were placed
over the curds to protect them. Later, curds from the evening milking
were added.
It has a natural brine washed-rind and is matured for four months or
longer. As it matures the cheese develops an ivory-coloured semi-soft
interior and mild creamy flavour.
The comments from the room were generally in agreement with the tastiness of the food as well as the papacy of it and the lunch was then closed.
Wine Review
The wines featured a Hunter Semillon and a northern Italian white with the starters and six cool-climate Shiraz from five of Australia’s best cool-climate producers with the main and cheese.
The six reds were sourced from four of the best regions for producing cool climate Shiraz and shared some common characteristics in their vinification; handpicking and minimal intervention, whole berry and whole bunch fermentation (with some time on skins), and aging in a mix of mostly old oak (circa 20-25% new) - with considerable restraint shown on oak usage – the result is a very attractive range of balanced, elegant wines with (relatively) low alcohol. All were good matches with the spicy Vietnamese-influenced shanks.
Tyrell’s HVD Semillon 2019
The HVD is made from handpicked fruit, sourced from Tyrell’s old vines, and sees minimal time on yeast before bottling early to maintain freshness (no oak). The wine showed aromas of lemon/lime citrus and fresh/vibrant fruit on the palate matched with chalky acidity and assertive finish – overall a complex wine with extreme length.
Fratelli Allessandria Langhe Favorita 2019
The wine is made from the indigenous Piedmont grape varietal, Favorita. On the nose, it presented fresh, delicate floral characters (reminiscent of a Vermentino) with hints of citrus. On the palate it was savoury and mineralised with a very persistent finish.
Both whites, with their assertive length and acidity, were a good match with the tasty spicy canapes.
Shaw and Smith Adelaide Hills Shiraz 2014
The grapes are sourced from high-level vineyards in the Adelaide Hills (at Lenswood and Balhannah).
On the nose, the wine was dark berry fruit-forward and vibrant with spicy, herbal notes and pepper.
On the palate, it displayed fleshy cherry/mulberry fruit with fine-grained tannins (which perhaps were a little aggressive at this stage). Overall, the Shaw and Smith was a medium-bodied, savoury, and elegant wine showing good fruit purity and balance with a long and layered palate. One of the best wines of the day and one to watch as it ages. Alc 14%
Craiglee Shiraz 2014
The Craiglee is sourced from 40+ year-old vines in Sunbury, Victoria just northwest of Melbourne.
On the nose, we saw attractive red berry fruits with earthy, cedar characters with savoury spicy and pepper notes. The palate exhibited a savoury, spicy cherry fruit richness, was medium-bodied with well-integrated soft tannins.
In summary, it was an earthy and elegant (though not overly complex) wine showing excellent balance and was popular on the day. Alc 13.5%
By Farr Shiraz 2014
The wine was sourced from cool climate vines (dating to 1994) grown in the Geelong region by the Farr family. The wine is co-fermented with very small quantities (< 3%) of viognier grapes to add richness.
There was some bottle variation in the wines (the By Farr being the only wine under cork) – at least one of the bottles showed some unpleasant ‘barnyard’ brettanomyces on the nose. The better bottles displayed pretty perfumed fruit with spice and pepper notes on the nose and on the palate was earthy, savoury and full-bodied with a little whole bunch stalkiness. The brett affected wine(s) was unfortunately quite stalky with aggressive tannins dominating. Alc 13.5%
Bests Great Western Bin ‘0’ Shiraz 2014
The wine is sourced from grapes grown in the Grampians region of central west Victoria. The wine is one of Bests premium ‘Icon’ range, made from low-yielding very old plantings dating from the late 19th to mid-20th century.
On the nose, the wine displayed complex earthy/meaty notes (perhaps a hint of reduction in one bottle) with bright/opulent blackberry fruit and spice. On the palate the wine was medium-bodied with dark cherry/blackberry fruit intensity and flavour and showed attractive ‘cigar box’ and licorice characters, firm grainy well-integrated tannins, and considerable length.
In summary, a refined and elegant wine showing great fruit depth and complexity. One of the better wines of the day. Alc 13.5%
Seppelt St Peters Grampian Shiraz 2010
The St Peters was served as red wine number 5 on the day.
The grapes are sourced from selected parcels from Seppelts best blocks in its Grampians vineyards and are aged for approx. 14 months in a combination of 3000 L and 500 L vats and 225 L barrels – resulting in very restrained oak treatment.
The St Peters is a crowd favourite of the Society but unfortunately today there was considerable bottle variation. The version served on the writer's table was out of balance with dried, extracted fruit and is unrated. Another table with a better example reported that the wine showed attractive perfumed fruit and spice, excellent structure, balance, complexity and good length. Alc 14%
Bests Great Western Bin ‘0’ Shiraz 2010
The Bests 2010 was served as wine number 6 on the day.
On the nose, the wine displayed a more developed version of the 2014 vintage with similar complex earthy characters but more developed savoury fruit notes. On the palate, the wine was medium-bodied with restrained developed savoury fruit and excellent balance with fully integrated tannins.
In summary, the 2010 was an elegant and balanced wine, still retaining some complexity and liveliness, that was drinking very well on the day. Alc 13.5%
18 May 2021 - CoTD Denis Redfern
Food and wine review by Robert Wiggins and photos by James Hill
Today Denis/Dennis squared with Trish and Jennifer created an Indian delight to a full house.
It was again back to normalcy, where we could all stand around and converse with each other throughout the canapes phase. We had just started getting back to normal, when over the past couple of weeks, the imposition of minor crackdowns on standing and masks, due to the unknown covid carrier, cast an unwelcome shadow of the reality of the virus.
A number of the members have already been vaccinated and hopefully over the next few months, if we all follow suit, this should stand all of us in good stead, with only high blood pressure, occasional gout and abused livers to contend with.
Denis Redfern was the originator and creator of this wonderful melange of Indian food, more than ably accompanied by his wife Trish, Dennis Cooper and his wife Jennifer Darin (fantastic to see her here in the Society again). To top it all off, once they had completed their part of the meal, it was off somewhere else to lunch for Dennis and Jennifer, to leave Denis Redfern to garner all of the accolades.
If there was one criticism that was repeated around the room about the canapes, it was that there was only one of each for every diner. This was firmly policed by the wait staff, presumably on strict orders from the kitchen. They were so tasty that I know if more were available, many more would have been crammed into our mouths, as each one was a separate delight.
The samosas, with Indian Spices from far off Chatswood, had a bit of heat which was aptly put out by the Tasmanian Tamar Valley’s Leo Buring’s Leopold Riesling, which was floral, dry and aromatic, with lovely purity and a high acid level, that worked wonders as a fire extinguisher on the palate after the tasty bite. Great accompaniment and matching of flavours and textures.
The onion bhajis, a mixture of onion, coriander and Besan flour, were deep-fried had the appropriate crunch and a bit of sweetness, which went well with the second aperitif wine, the German Kabinett Mosel Riesling. This wine with its residual sugar content was an excellent companion to Indian cuisine. Besan flour is actually made from ground chickpeas, rather than wheat.
The canapes were rounded off with some small tasty Masala Prawns, tempered in a sauce of garlic, coriander and mustard seeds, with just enough of the Mosel to finish the first act off.
The bell was rung and it was all time for everyone to go to their corners, and be seated.
Denis had artfully catered for all levels of tolerance of heat for the members' palates by placing small tubs of Raita, tomato sambal, mango chutney and a hot chutney on the table for each person to determine how far along the temperature chart they wished to pursue. The pickles and relish were all consumed by the end of the lunch and no one complained about the meal being too hot or spicy as they were the masters of their own level of heat.
The main course consisted of Raffles chicken, Rogan Josh and Sookhe Aloo, on a bed of long-grain rice.
It was agreed around the table and the room, of the three concoctions on the plate, the standout winner was the Rogan Josh. There was even enough left over for a second helping in a bowl for each table, which returned empty by the time it made its way around the diners. Some extra Nans and pappadums were extremely helpful in ensuring that all of the liquid on the plates was mopped up.
The wines that accompanied the meal were very big Aussie Barossa Shirazes. They were a great match, with their full-bodied dense flavour and high alcohol content that seem to polarise members; who either love or detest them.
The first lunch Shiraz was a 2009 Pirathon from Kalleske which was elegant, restrained, pretty with spice, not jammy with fine tannins and great with the curry. It was also described as ripe, jammy heavy and not fat with the tannins not matured well. … different tastes!
The second wine was a 2008 Torbreck Struie, which also went very well with the food.
The cheese was a L'Amuse Brabander, which was a semi-hard Goats milk from the Netherlands. The porcelain-white paste of this cheese is a stark contrast to the deep amber colour synonymous with the usual classic Dutch gouda, as it is a goat’s milk gouda – a lesser-known variety, which has been made in the Netherlands since the early 1800s. Brabander comes from the Brabant region in the south.
It was complemented with some almonds and raisins, plus red and white grapes. The two cheese wines, which came early enough to also enjoy with the food, were also great with the curry.
There was a 2009 Kaesler Old Vine, which came from vines older than 35 years, which luxuriated for a long time in an oak bath, then was served up as a “monster”, with chocolate and aggressive tannins!
The 2008 Hardys Bin HRB D646 (such an elegant name), was a blend of McLaren Vale and Clare, which many thought was the wine of the day. Described as an attractively balanced wine with good tannins and went very well with the goat’s cheese.
The coffee was what is now the Society’s main blend, with just enough gravel to make it a good palate cleanser. So much better than some of the dishwater that has been served up on some occasions.
Commenting on the meal;
As one member remarked, quoting the late Max Lake; “Strong food demands a strong wine”. However, another member then remarked that “palates change”. It is fantastic that here in Australia we have so much choice in both our wines and food.
Josef, who has been known in the past for some of his critical observations of the dishes served up by members, remarked that he has never had a meal that has “come together, better than this one”. I can only speculate that this is indeed high praise for the lunch.
Chilly informed us that the Struie was named by the winemaker, who used to be a lumberjack in Scotland and the Struie was the forest where he would fell his victims. A very interesting change of profession. It certainly is an educational society. I am not sure if there is a winemaker in Australia and Europe that Chilly doesn’t know. We are extremely fortunate to have such a great resource for our own wine master.
Chilly is also looking to donate some of his time to some wine masterclasses during the rest of the year. This will be for both aspiring new members as well as the existing cohort and will be held in the evening. These events will have an extremely small number of places available. More of this fantastic initiative will be discussed over the next few weeks, as times are organised. If you are interested, it would be advisable to let Chilly know as there will probably be waitlists.
Speaking to Denis about his meal and creations, it was interesting that India was not one of the many places in the world where he has lived, however in some of the far-flung corners of the globe that he called home, came many of these recipes.
The chicken curry was actually a 1950’s recipe from the iconic Raffles Hotel in Singapore, via his parents and grandmother and as such is more of a Malaysian style curry than an Indian one.
Next week will be a wine tasting week, with some great wines being lined up by Chilly.
Mark Bradford will be in the kitchen, recreating his version of the battle of Dien Bien Phu; a mix of French and Vietnamese. And you don’t need to go all of the way to Cabramatta, which it was remarked that if you drive a Merc there, you will not be hassled as it is the vehicle of choice by the local import/export entrepreneurs.
Vietnamese food is such a great balance between all of the tastes and it is with anticipation that we look forward to Mark’s version, with some interesting iconic wines thrown in.
It is advisable to book early as the wine tasting lunches are always booked out!