Food review by James Hill and wine review by Stephen O'Halloran

Food

Our Cellarmaster, past Food Master, past President, and three-time Chef of the Year winner, Nick Reynolds, was in the kitchen for lunch today.

Canapés

First up, snack cups with nduja, goat’s cheese, and red pepper. The nduja had a bit of heat, which was offset by the goat’s cheese and sweet red pepper.

Then croquettes filled with prosciutto and béchamel. The mini croquettes were perfectly crisp, not too oily. Nick explained that the croquette bechamel mix was frozen into small spheres before crumbing. 

Lastly, sourdough pikelets with sour cream, lime marmalade, and prawns. I liked the addition of lime marmalade to this canapé, it adds a good dimension of flavour.

Main

Our main today was duck two ways (confit and breast), sitting on top of a parsnip purée with some pickled cherry and a fennel salad garnish.

The dish was perfectly executed, flavoursome, textural, and importantly, all plates came out of the kitchen at temperature.

Mastery is the word that comes to mind when Nick is cooking. Today’s lunch was no exception, showing the quality and innovation that he produces. The dishes were much appreciated by all attending today and reflected in comments.

Bread today was from Harris Farm, a sourdough baguette.

Cheese

Cheesemaster Mark Bradford selected an Australian cow’s milk cheese, Heidi Gruyère. It was good to see this served at our lunch again after a lengthy absence.

With a fine, smooth-textured paste and firm, elastic texture, this cheese has excellent melting properties and is perfect for grilling, soufflés, and fondue. Heidi Farm Cheese was established by Frank and Elizabeth Marchand, originally from Switzerland, who set up a dairy farm in Tasmania in the 1980s.

Cultures and non-animal rennet set the curd before it is cut into tiny, rice-sized grains that are then washed and reheated before hooping and pressing. During maturation, the large 10kg wheels are washed and brushed, encouraging the development of Brevibacterium linens on the damp rind.

This orange-coloured, pungent rind is slightly sticky to the touch and provides a rich, savoury flavour that complements the nuttiness of the cheese within.

Nick accompanied the cheese with some nuts and plump, organic, unsulphured apricots with Italian crackers.

Wine

Duck and Pinot Noir was the theme for today's lunch, and it lived up to its reputation with ease. Some delightful flavours from both food and wine. Nick Reynolds was our Chef du Jour and did a great job. See the Food Report for more details. 

First wine of the day was a 10 yo Riesling from Clare, a Mitchell McNicol 2015 @ 13.5%. Still in good shape for a 10yo, but consumed alone without food, it was to my taste a little on the sweetish side. Some noticeable residual sugar. With some of the spicy pass arounds however, the wine became more enjoyable and was a good match for some of the canapes. A very drinkable wine, but for certain, to be taken with the right food. 

Second wine of the day was a cracker, the Onannon 2023 Pinot Noir @ 13.5% from the Mornington P. What an outstanding Australian PN! From the first sip, it exuded sheer class. A deeply coloured Pinot, looking more like a Shiraz in appearance. From the very first mouthful, one was aware of intense strawberry flavours, mixed with cherry and other dark fruits. Velvety tannins with acid and oak combining to deliver a warm, luscious mouthfeel with an elegant, persistent finish. To my taste, the best local Pinot I have drunk since my last taste of Pooley PN from Coal River, Tas. I'm scurrying off to buy a few for my cellar. My wine of the day by a clear margin. 

Next wine, also a Pinot, had the misfortune to be placed right behind the star of the show, the Onannon. This wine was the Port Philip Estate, Red Hill PN, 2023 @ 13.5%. Talk about batting after Bradman, as the old saying goes. I would like to assess this wine on its own, well away from the influence of the other Pinot, but time does not allow me this luxury. Doing the best I can, I found this wine to be much lighter in colour and texture, very much like the average Aust PN, with of course much less flavour than the Onannon and a lot thinner. Very hard for me to assess this wine, with the memory of the previous wine dominating my taste buds. Some comments around the table suggested that the wine had been over-extracted in the winemaking process. 

Next wine was the Tapanappa Piccadilly Chardonnay 2022 @ 13.7% from the master winemaker Brian Croser. He makes his Chardonnay in a very predictable style, taught, restrained and disciplined. The problem for me with this particular wine was that it simply lacked flavour and finished slightly flat. Perhaps the acids were diminishing early. There were some hints of melon and citrus, which were nice, but overall, the wine was to me unexciting and forgettable. 

Final wine was the Andrew Thomas Cote Vineyard Shiraz from the Hunter @ 14% and from the excellent vintage of 2018, rated a 10/10 year for Shiraz. Andrew Thomas has steadily gained a reputation of being arguably the best winemaker in the Hunter. This wine certainly showcased his talents. The wine was intense, spicy and full-bodied, and in great balance. Powerful but stylish and so easy to drink. Big juicy dark fruit flavours with the oak, tannin and acid pulling it all together at the finish. A classic Hunter Shiraz which will continue to impress for years ahead. Overall rating: Excellent.