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Food review by Mark Bradford and wine information by Nick Reynolds

Food

The Society’s last Mixed Lunch (aka “Ladies’ Lunch”) for 2023 saw Steve Sparkes and Rob Guthrie in the kitchen, presenting an all-Italian affair.  A first-timer, Rob prepared the three canapes solo without the assistance of the very experienced Steve and did a sterling job indeed.  Convalescing from a broken foot, Steve was the Galloping Gourmet on crutches, and is to be thanked for the effort put into the meal with a significant handicap on the day.

Canapes 

We commenced with bruschetta, made with well drained tomatoes, finely sliced red onion, minced garlic, lemon zest, basil, oil, and seasoning.  Rob served this on sourdough that had been brushed with oil and rubbed with garlic prior to baking. 

Next to come was garlic and pea puree, made with blanched garden peas pureed with roasted garlic, garlic oil, mint leaves and chilli flakes.  It was served on crostini made from thinly sliced white sourdough and finished with finely chopped chilli and a little chilli oil. 

Finally, Rob presented roasted vegetable tarts, being puff pastry topped with a blend of ricotta and pesto, sliced zucchini and cherry tomatoes, then baked in the oven for 15 minutes. 

All offerings were enjoyed by the mixed lunch attendees with highly favourable comments, a triumph of colour and taste. 

Main 

Steve presented us with pork belly porchetta, using Kurobuta Berkshire Pork from Vic’s Meats in Mascot.   The cut was free-range pork belly, hand tied, and stuffed with white pepper, garlic oregano and fennel.  Steve air dried it in the fridge for three days, rubbed with a little Kosher salt and left uncovered.  On the day, it was brought to room temperature, lightly rubbed and then put in a very hot oven for about 1.5 to 2 hours.  There were three pieces, each just under 3 kg, and all was eaten by the 30 odd attendees! 

Accompanying the pork was peperonata, a very old Northern Italian dish that was cooked by Steve’s wife Marina.  It had lots of capsicum, onion and tomato, with a touch of chilli.  Some of the capsicum were blackened to add to the depth of flavour, and then all was cooked with a lot of olive oil very slowly for a few hours.  The dish was topped with a small pickled fennel, green apple and rocket salad with just a touch of olive oil.  And, in the Italian way, a fresh green salad with celery, tomato and red onion followed the main. The bread was a Country White Loaf from Burke Street Bakery. 

The main was an absolute delight.  The pork crackling was incredibly delicious with bubbly, puffy and crispy skin which shattered in the mouth, while the fat was soft and the meat tender, but still able to be carved in the fashion of a true roast.  The comments – aplenty from the ladies – were highly favourable. 

Cheese 

Steve requested a hard Tuscan cheese, and a Pecorino Toscano DOP Stagionato was provided by the Cheese master. It is an artisan cow and sheep milk cheese that is produced by Il Forteto (the fort), northeast of Florence.  A great example of a Tuscan pecorino, it is aged for over four months, while the rind develops a burnt golden colour and the nutty texture gradually becomes dense and flaky with a slightly sweet finish. Complex flavours of sweet and savoury highlight the quality of this classic cheese, which was appreciated on the day. 

The cheese was accompanied by brandied cumquats (brandy, sugar and vanilla pod, left for approximately one year) with nuts spiced with rosemary, sage, a touch of fresh chilli and cayenne pepper. 

Wines

Appetisers were served with a fresh NV Jansz Premium Cuvée Sparkling from Tasmania.

The main was accompanied by a 2010 Yabby Lake Single Vineyard Chardonnay and, in line with the Tuscan theme, a 2010 Poggio al Tesoro Mediterra, which was a Super-Tuscan made from a blend of 40% Syrah, 30% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon.

The Tuscan theme was continued with the wine accompanying the cheese, which was a 2015 Podere Poggio Scalette Chianti Classico Sangiovese. The cellarmaster also provided a bottle of Chardonnay to each table from surplus stock in the wine fridge.