The Society’s inveterate chef, James Hill, was back at it again this week assisted by Nick Reynolds and Gary Linnane on canape construction.                                                         

Canapés. Not to do things by halves, James served us three canapés. Firstly, a prawn bisque with chervil served in small cups. There was some spice present and the prawn flavours were quite intense. Next on the list was Bacalao (salt cod) on crusty bread with parsley. A beautifully salty dish. Finally steak tartare with quail’s egg served on an Asian style spoon. High-quality steak made this a very popular dish.                                                                 

Aperitif wine. Our Winemaster of the day left the beaten track by serving us a red and white as aperitif wines. They were the Soumah Yarra Chardonnay 2013 and Marina Coppi Barbera 2010 from Piedmont. The Chardonnay with a fine Australian version possibly lacking a little complexity but good none the less. The Barbera was from great vintage, had seen no wood and had a berry nose that followed through to the flavours in the mouth. A bigger wine but not heavy.

Main course. James’s choice for main course had quite a bit going on. The beautifully cooked duck breast came with a pomegranate molasses, quince and ginger glaze. On the side, duck liver stuffed mushroom and very pretty pink pickled radish finely sliced. Wonderful to the eye and the palate.

The wines. In the absence of the Winemaster our wine presenter of the day was Richard Gibson. His selections were:

• Seresin Leah Marlborough Pinot Noir 2010 (cork, 14.5%)
• Laurent Gauthier Grand Cras Morgon Beaujolais 2013 (cork, 13.4%)
• Chateau de Beaucastel Coudoulet Cotes du Rhone 2009 (screwcap, 13.5%)
• McWilliams Anne Semillon 2006 (screwcap, 13%)
• Lions de Suduiraut Sauternes 2009 (cork, 14%) – a personal contribution from Richard Gibson

The first two wines were in theory an interesting combination as many have been fooled by a Gamay versus Pinot Noir blind tasting. However, the Seresin, whilst having good fruit, was of a sweeter New Zealand style and would have been better with a little more stringency. The Morgon was more austere with finer fruit that was preferable with the duck. The range of flavours made the task a tricky one for Richard.

With the cheese, it has become more common of late to serve a white and a red wine that most are enjoying. The Rhône was elegant, balanced and had great savoury fruit. What’s not to like! The Anne Semillon has been somewhat of a regular recently and as before, this was a definite step up from the Elizabeth with brilliantly clear acid and some length but it lacked the complexity of the more aristocratic Lovedale.

The generous gift by Richard Gibson of the Sauternes was a wonderful way to finish the meal. A lighter Sauternes style with tropical fruit and that beautiful intense marmalade flavour just beginning to develop. Thank you, Richard.

Cheese and coffee. Grandorge Pont Leveque was the choice of our Cheesemaster of the day, Gary Linnane. This Normandy cheese is claimed to be the oldest Norman cheese still in production and is cow’s milk. It is creamy but still elastic and is a member favourite.

Spencer Ferrier in absentia provided a Peruvian coffee, Paraiso Perdido, which was dosed a little more than usual and it did it no harm. Sweet and caramel overtones.

James Hill completed his description of the meal with one word, challenging. Again, Pete in the kitchen was a great help as were Nick and Gary.