13 September

Paul Irwin presented a high degree of difficulty/risk main course partnered by a time consuming preparation. Preparing individual pie bases by hand for 40 servings is not for the faint hearted but he pulled it off with the assistance of Steve Liebeskind in the kitchen.

Canapés. We started off with a fine duck liver pâté on bread rounds. The pâté was robust with a very pleasant touch of sweetness provided by Cointreau Blood Orange Liqueur. Very moreish. We then moved on to a sweet potato and cashew combination on bread rounds topped off with preserved red capsicums. A striking colour and flavour variance with fuller sweet and nutty flavours.  

Aperitif wine. Paul Ferman selected a La Cana Rias Baixas Albarino 2012 (12.5%). The Rias Baixas DO specialises in Albarino which is becoming more familiar to Australians thanks to chains like Dan Murphys offering a number of labels. The wine sees no wood and in its youth is firm and steely with a nice acid structure well suited to food. At three years of age this wine has a pronounced yellow colour and had softened considerably. It divided the room with opinions. It did stand up to the full flavoured canapés but some may have liked it more in its youth.

Main course.  With a degree of difficulty of about 8 on the sports scale the duck pie was a great success. Paul made the pastry from scratch and then formed each shell by hand. Then of course he used 12 ducks which he hand dismembered/dispatched (although I think they were deceased when received them), then roasted the bones for the stock along with carrots, celery, rosemary and thyme. The resulting ragu had a wonderful depth of flavour and consistency. The shell did not get soft and collapse but remained firm. Paul, in retrospect, said he will ensure that they are a little more malleable next time. A puff pastry hat topped the pie. The pie was served with roasted vegetables in duck fat (hence the plates were well cleared), a sour apple sauce and spinach leaf.

The wines.

• Jamshead garden Gully Syrah 2011 (Great Western) (cork, 14.4%)
• Olivers Taranga HJ Reserve Shiraz 2008 (screwcap, 15%)
• Taturry Mosselini Syrah (Mornington) 2013 (cork, 13.6%)
• Rosemount Balmoral Shiraz 2007 (screwcap, 15%)

All in all these were a bunch of big wines as requested by our chef to match the full flavour of the duck ragu. However, the first pairing was quite different. The Jamshead was a more modern style of GW red. Big but elegant and not showing hotness despite the alcohol. The Olivers was their flagship and it was huge but soft in that McLaren style way. Unashamedly old-fashioned.

With cheese another dichotomy of style. The Taturry had a Pinot-like build with modern Syrah showing. The Rosemount was bigger as befits a Balmoral and drinking very well at 9 years of age. Spicy and soft if not a great year in the Vale.

Cheese and coffee. No one could quite recall the last time we had Australia’s own Heidi Gruyere from Exton, Tasmania. From a 10 kg wheel the cheese was in perfect condition. A sweetness and nuttiness flavour with a firm body. Great choice James Healey. This was served with parsley based salad.

Spencer Ferrier provided a potted history of El Salvador coffee and it’s decline in quality linked to the poor national government and widespread gang violence. He was not overly impressed with the coffee but it did possess a pleasant sweetness.

Spencer foreshadowed that next week he would have Costa Rican coffee entrepreneur to give a brief presentation to the lunch.

VP Peter Kelso addressed the issue of a decline in the number of members volunteering to cook. He asked members to organise a few cooking pairings to contact our Foodmaster re a future lunch.

To Paul Irwin, a huge effort for the lunch. Thank you.

6 September 2016

In summary Paul Ferman provided a wonderful lunch with layers of taste types, colours and styles. It was pleasing to see good numbers and some members we have not seen for a while especially Peter Manners fully recovered from his City to Surf accident and keen to have his postponed lunch back on the schedule. James’s Hill and Healey assisted Paul with canapés and in the kitchen.

Canapés. Once again we were treated to three starters. Firstly, an Elizabeth David inspiration, the famed Spanish Oritz anchovies on a tapenade with (of course) Iggys bread. Just stunning anchovies. Then Paul’s homemade pork terrine with a seam of truffle and foie gras running through the centre served with Simon Johnson’s rhubarb chutney on bread rounds. To finish off a consommé of much reduced chicken stock, veal shoulder, truffle oil and vegetables. Much liked.

Aperitif wine. The main wine was a Domaine Chatelain Pouilly-Fume 2014. This appellation is basically 100% Sauvignon Blanc. Bright and crisp at 12% but a little too acidic if not enjoying a canapé at the time. It’s easy to be critical of ‘Savvy” but Pouilly-Fume and Sancerre can be exceptions. We also had the last of the Oceans 8 Chardonnay 2009 and it was a little flat and in need of drinking.

Main course.  Paul’s main of lamb shank was described as a cornucopia of colour and variety on the plate. Where to start? Served on a Neil Perry recipe of polenta of cornmeal and buckwheat with chicken stock it was accompanied by carrots, zucchini, cucumber and beetroot. Some comments indicated that their meat was slightly dry but others were full of praise for its juiciness, tenderness and flavour.

The wines.

• Anne Gros/Jean-Paul Tollot LA50/50 2012 (Languedoc) (cork, 14%)
• Clos de Gamot Cahors 2010 (cork, 12.5%)
• Tyrrells Vat 47 Chardonnay 2007 (screwcap, 14%)
• The Yard Shiraz 2010 (Mount Franklin WA) (screwcap cork, 13.6%)

The first pairing was interesting in that they both had that drying Northern style. The 50/50 was predominately Grenache and attracted varying views. The Grenache was showing as a savoury overtone to the wine. The Cahors was surprisingly light in alcohol at 12.5%. Cahors was in the distant past referred to as ‘the black wine of Cahors’. At least 70% Malbec it was powerful but elegant with a good mouthfeel and long finish. It still needs time.

With the cheese the Vat 47 was brilliant. The early austerity is giving way to softness with peaches and other fruits evident. It has a good future. The Shiraz from Larry Cherubino in WA is a substantial wine but not without elegance. The oak needs time to soften.

Cheese and coffee. James Healey selected a Berry’s Creek Tarwin Blue from Gippsland. A cow’s milk cheese it was moist and not too crumbly. In fact, it was clinging to the knife in the way that makes you want to put the knife (not recommended) in your mouth. Comments from members had it in France and Australia.

Spencer Ferrier (in absentia) provided Costa Rica La Magnolia Estate. It was decaffeinated and the first such coffee for 2016. From Costa Rica it is shipped to Vancouver for processing. It has a sweet aroma and is full flavoured in the cup. It would take a very experienced palate to pick the decaff nature.

Paul Ferman generously provided two bottles of McWilliams Vintage Port 1966 which under screwcap was in stunning condition. An amazing Aussie fortified.

And thanks to member Tony Scott for donating to our Society the aperitif wine and the Cahors. Very generous.

Our Chair for the day (and the coming six weeks) was VP Peter Kelso who presented new member Peter Missingham with his member bow tie as part of his welcome to our Society.

A very good lunch. If you know members who do not know what they are missing out on with our lunches, please give them a call.

30 August Wine Lunch

Today we had a “virgin chef” in the guise of Professor Mark Bradford, or simply Mark, assisted by a very experienced kitchen person in Gary Patterson. A fearless decision to do a wine lunch with plating for 40 plus members. And it was a success.

Canapés. Mark treated us to three starters. In no particular order we started with Oysters with ponzu sauce. Then “Calabrese bites”, skewers of fresh basil leaf, half cherry tomato, half bocconcini ball, sun-dried tomato wrapped with salami, drizzled with balsamic vinegar and warmed. These were excellent and flew off the plate. Finally, Iggy's baguette topped with powdered Parmesan topped with prepared tapenade paste, ricotta and a quarter trussed cherry tomato. The tomato was covered with caster sugar and salt and drizzled with olive oil and served warm.

Alas they were not all Mark’s ideas. Sandra, his friend from Calgary, Alberta, suggested inspirations from Company's Coming, a local Canadian food bible. We are appreciative.

Aperitif wine. We started the day with William Fevre Chablis 2012. Fevre is a respected house and this is their Domaine or standard Chablis. Most thought that it lacked the tight and flinty fruit characteristics of good typical Chablis and was a little flat. Given 2012 was a very good Chablis vintage this was a surprise. It may have opened up in the glass but did not have the chance on the day.

Main course. Mark selected to serve chicken cacciatore or hunter style chicken. It was braised skinless chicken thigh and drumstick with skin on, cooked in generous amounts of red and green capsicums, sliced onion, garlic, mushrooms, white wine, diced tomatoes, ground dried thyme and a little turmeric served over Israeli couscous and topped with parmesan shavings and fresh chopped parsley.

The flavours were well integrated and of sufficient strength to be interesting without challenging the vino at this wine lunch. A delicate balance is always required.

The wines – a wine lunch

• Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz 2004 (cork)
• Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz 2002 (cork)
• Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz 1998 (cork)
• Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz 1990 (cork)
• Lindemans Limestone Ridge Shiraz Cabernet 1998 (cork)
• Chateau Haut-Bages Liberal 2002 (Bordeaux left bank, predom Cabernet) (cork)

The wines were served from youngest to oldest as is our habit. It worked well here but at the July wine lunch the varying styles of Italian regions may be better served in style groups. Food for thought.

As a group the 389’s were as expected. Powerful and long lasting. The 1990 at 26 years still had faint chocolate on the palate and depending on the luck of the bottle was at its peak or maybe a tad past it. It was the wine of the lunch for many. The 1998 continues to be point of discussion. In its youth it was beautiful but seems to be paying a high price for maturity.

The Limestone Ridge attracted dissent. No doubt this was due to bottle variation. A lighter style, drying out but has retained some elegance. I would have preferred it slightly younger but comments lay both sides of this view. The Bordeaux like all other wines was served blind. Few picked it as the sole French wine. Classic Medoc from a trying year. However, it was drinking well but a touch fresher fruit would have made it even better.

All in all, a wine lunch holding up the standard.

Cheese and coffee. Today James Healey served us the Cabot Clothbound Cheddar (style) from Vermont in the good ‘ol US of A. This long matured cheese (and hence sometimes in short supply) is a high priced cow’s milk cheese that comes in 17 kg wheels. We only managed 3 kg at the lunch. A little crumbly and wonderfully sweet and nutty.

The cheese was served with walnuts and Greek sun dried figs. The pièce de résistance was the Iggy’s bread that was served all the way through the lunch. A great ‘stretchy’ texture few bakers can match.

Spencer Ferrier rushed in early to the lunch (but court awaited) to apportion the coffee servings of Indian Mysore coffee. He describes it as of not outstanding quality but served it to compare to his commercial coffee education experience where we have had Vittoria, Lavazza and Illy in recent weeks. It compared very well and comments nearby were excellent.

23 August 2016

Our Foodmaster Nick Reynolds stepped into the chef of the day role at short notice after our scheduled cook Peter Manners had an accident on the City to Surf. We wish him well and he will be back later in the year for his German inspired lunch. Nick was assisted by James Hill.

Canapés. Nick presented a rich chicken liver pate on Iggy’s ficelle bread sticks cut thinly. Juniper berries and brandy added so much flavour to this tasty canapé.

Aperitif wine. We started our wine journey with a Warramate Riesling 2011 (screwcap, 11.5%, Yarra). Some slight residual sugar but offset by plenty of acid. Very clean and good at its role as a cleanser with the liver pate. A bottle or two of The Yard Verve Chardonnay 2009 was also served but it was the lesser match.

Main course.  The main this week from our Foodmaster and sous vide expert, Nick Reynolds, was sliced chicken breast (sous vide of course) on a base of farro (grains of certain wheat species) cooked in chicken stock. The farro was mixed with dried apricots, pomegranate, spinach leaves and crumbled feta. Farro was a new to many and an excellent point of food education.

The chicken had a wonderfully moist and soft centre as would be expected. There were some comments that more flavour by way of sauce content and flavour would have enhanced the dish. The really mouth-watering part was the crunchy baked chicken skin with Moroccan herbs sitting atop the dish.

The wines.

• Lindemans HV Semillon Bin 8455 1994 (cork, 11.5%)
• Lindemans Eliza’s Ten Pinot Noir 2010 (screwcap, 13.5%)
• Guigal Crozes Hermitage 2009 (cork, 13.5%)
• Vasse Felix Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 (cork, 13.5%)

The first wine from Paul Ferman was the 1994 Lindies and it looked for all the world in the bottle as a sample if you know what I mean. Corks were tricky to remove but the wine was in a wonderful pristine condition. A very good example of an aged Hunter Semillon. A great joy. The Lindys Pinot was an honest workman like wine (drinkable/comfortable) which went surprisingly well with the chicken.

With the cheese there was two beaut wines but very different. The Guigal house has many fans and the 2009 Syrah was dark coloured wine with great concentration with tannins now softening. The Vasse Felix was still dark in hue with blackcurrant on both nose and palate. Good length and balance and drinking very well. A great example of a fine structured Margaret River style.

Cheese and coffee. The cheese selected by James Healey had mix of personalities. A Dutch cheesemaker making cheese in Ireland. No one picked it. Coolea turned out to be a fromage in the Gouda style made for only six months of the year but matured for up to two years. This cheese had maturity and much enjoyed.

Spencer Ferrier (in absentia) provided his second of three commercial coffee interludes with Vittoria Expresso coffee from 100% Arabica beans. A coffee of substantial weight but somewhat flat and one dimensional. Members have been spoiled by Spencer’s excursions into the high end.

As a member if you do not come to lunch this is what you miss out on.

16 August 2016

Manning the kitchen this week we had Graham Fear ably assisted by Steve Liebeskind and Paul Panichi with a cornucopia of seafood for our enjoyment.

Canapés. We were treated to three with the team working for hours doing the assembly. Firstly, Spanish anchovies with Swedish cod roe served on crisped croutons brushed with ghee. Then seared Tasmania scallops on black pudding (who doesn’t like black pud!) with tangy wasabi mayo. Finally, West Australian spanner crabs (fresh, unfrozen) with herbs and caviar and a touch of heat from chilli. Three outstanding canapés.

Aperitif wine. A French treat from our Winemaster with Bernard Fouquet Cuvee De Silex Vouvray 2014. This Loire wine was well received and in this case the wine had just a touch of residual sugar but good acid which went well with the seafood. Vouvray can be made bone dry to quite sweet and styles vary from vintages and makers.

Main course.  Graham served us very well presented portions of NZ King Salmon just cooked and moist. It has a high oil content and 8 minutes in the oven had it done. The fish was served on a base of pureed cauliflower flavoured with fresh herbs including parsley and spices. This was accompanied by just cooked vegetables of green and yellow beans and carrot. The pièce de résistance were chat potatoes roasted in duck fat. As with the black pud, who doesn’t like potatoes roasted in duck fat?

The wines.

• Nick O’Leary Shiraz (Canberra District) 2009 (screwcap, 13.5%)
• Taylors Shiraz 2002 (cork, 14.5%)
• Coldstream Hills Pinot Noir 2010 (screwcap,13.5%)
• Chateau La Grolet Cotes de Bourg (right bank Bordeaux) 2009 (cork,13%)

The main course wines were in distinct contrast. The former a cooler climate wine with clean excellent fresh fruit characters. A wine to drink now at 7 years of age or over the next few years. The Taylors 2002 was aged and a little hot and jammy but most loved the style. The former was the best match to the salmon.

With the cheese again there was a real contrast between the Pinot and the predominately Merlot Bordeaux. We know the Coldstream Hills well and it did not disappoint. Elegant at its peak and lovely drinking with red berry and soft tannins. The La Grolet was dry, silky but puckering in the mouth and clearly not of Australian origin. The savoury fruit was an excellent match to the cheese.

A big thank you to member Tony Scott who donated the aperitif wine and the Bordeaux for our lunch.

Cheese and coffee. Goat cheese to the forefront today from James Healey with a French cheese from the Pyrenees. The Caprinelle Tomme de Cherve was semi-hard, pale in colour with a wonderful aroma and creamy palate texture. It was a first for many members.

Spencer Ferrier provided Ethopian Sidamo Guji coffee. It is a bean from coffee trees grown wild and is an heirloom traditional coffee. Chocolate flavours were very evident.

9 August 2016

Our Vice-President Peter Kelso was at the stove assisted by Martin McMurray for an Italian inspired lunch.

Canapés. Peter and Martin gave us two seafood based starters. Firstly, cherry tomatoes cored and stuffed with crab and mayonnaise and topped with a slice of olive. Then followed excellent white anchovy on crispy toast and topped with capsicum. Both were well received.

Aperitif wine. Our Winemaster served the Ocean Eight Verve Chardonnay 2009 (their entry level wine) from Mornington. Unusually for an Australian white of a recent vintage it was under cork. There was no bottle variation but most thought it was lacking a little character. One bottle of the Lindemans Sparking Shiraz 1999 from Hunter was also opened and was in fine condition being under crown seal.

Main course.  Peter provided us with osso buco Milanese style served with a startling yellow (saffron) risotto. This was accompanied by gremolata as a side in the traditional mode. The sauce did not contain tomato and was not slow cooked in the style of which many of us are familiar. The Milanese style favours much shorter cooking time so that the meat does not fall off the bone but has more texture. It was delicious with some commenting that their pieces were a bit more gristle than meat. Luck of the draw. So, you can cook Italian without tomato.

The wines.

• Coriole Sangiovese 2009 (Mornington) (screwcap, 14%)
• Angullong Fossil Hill Sangiovese 2009 (Orange) (screwcap, 14.9%)
• DenMar Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 (HV) (screwcap, 13.5%)
• Blue Pyrenees Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 (screwcap, 14%)

It was an all Australian all vintage 2009 day. The Coriole and the Angullong shared a common grape but not much else. There was a divergence of views on which was the more enjoyable wine but most felt the Coriole had more the savoury character of a Tuscan red but still a modest shadow of the original. The Orange wine came across as an Australian wine of indeterminate grape but was favoured by some. Both were solid enough to go with the flavoursome main.

The cheese wines were of a fuller and riper character as befits Cabernets from the Hunter and Pyrenees. The DenMar had a distinctive sweetness and had peaked. The Blue Pyrenees had a better structure and solid in style just avoiding a jammy character.   

Cheese and coffee. For cheese James Healey provided a Mauri Gorgonzola Dolce a pasteurised cows’ milk Lombardy product. The Dolce variation is sweet, milky and creamy with hints of spice. As we have come to expect it was in perfect condition. This compares to the Piccante version of Gorgonzola which some have been known to dislike as it is more aged, piquant and crumblier. A salad accompanied the cheese being radicchio and endive with a vinaigrette dressing.

Spencer Ferrier served us Lavazza and a potted history of Luigi Lavazza who opened his first shop in Turin in 1895. Who knew Lavazza took an espresso machine to the International Space Station in 2015? We had the Crema e Gusto which is a full bodied version.

For the next while Spencer will be alternating between selected beans and commercial blends to provide us with an educational experience.

2 August 2016

Bill Alexiou-Hucker was assisted on the day by Peter Manners who was a last minute ring-in. It’s good to see our younger members pitching in!

Canapés. Bill and his helpers served us three starters. Firstly a soup which had most of us wildly guessing and not correct in the main. It was a parsnip and apple soup topped with a crispy prosciutto. The crunchy topping set it off wonderfully. Then came medium rare lamb back strap served on crisp bread rounds topped with sesame seeds. They evaporated very quickly from plates. Finally a vegetable frittata, very tasty but a little soft to easily consume. Great starters.

Aperitif wine. Our winemaster served two whites, the Cherubino The Yard Chardonnay 2010 (Pemberton, WA) and Seppelts Jaluka Chardonnay 2013 (Henty, Victoria). Interesting comments with some divergence. The Yard was the lesser of the two with the Jaluka showing an elegant mid path between overly ripe and a more austere style.

Main course.  Bill served a luscious and glutinous beef rib which was described by many as outstanding. It was. The generously sized rib after some fours braising was served on mash which Bill described as having lashings of cream and butter. We loved it. The final component was cabbage prepared with cloves and yellow mustard seed. A great meal.

The wines.

• Gaia Agiorgitiko 2012 (Nemea, Greece) (cork, 13.5%)
• Domaine Gerovassiliou Rouge 2009 (Syrah and Merlot, Greece) (cork, 14%)
• Saltrams Mamre Brook Barossa Shiraz 2002 (cork, 15%)
• Alkoomi Jarrah Shiraz 1999 (Franklin, WA) (cork, 13.5%)

Paul strategically selected two Greek wines to begin. The Gaia is from the widely grown Agiorgitiko grape and was a real hit. It was a lighter style marked by elegance, length and some savoury characters. The Domaine Gerovassiliou an unusual blend of Syrah and Merlot was the lesser wine with age starting to show. Soft and approachable but in the shadow of the Gaia.

The Saltrams at 14 years old was a fading monster but still going strong. An older fashioned Australian Shiraz at its peak with masses of vanillin oak. Some would have preferred it a few years ago. The other cheese wine, the Alkoomi, had bottle variation and at 17 years of age had also stared to oxidise at least in some examples. Oh, and volatility. Not a success despite its premium pricing when bought in the early 2000s.

Cheese and coffee. James Healey served us a Spanish Manchego from Dehesa de Los Lianos.  This unpasteurised cow’s milk cheese comes with the distinctive “car tyre tread” skin. Well-aged with a rich, sweet and nutty flavour. Wonderful with leftover fino sherry.

Spencer Ferrier in absentia presented a Society favourite with Ethiopian Yirgacheffe beans. The dosing of our plungers is essential and Spencer was on handy early to get it right. Yirgacheffe is a washed bean and known for its floral notes in the aroma, sometimes with a hint of toasted coconut.

A very good lunch. Thanks Bill.

26 July 2016

Our Society’s Life Member Ted Davis was the Chef of the Day and was assisted by another very experienced cook in Gareth Evans. The meal and wines were excellent. Ted reminded those present that they were not members of a luncheon club but rather members of a society, the Wine and Food Society of New South Wales and he supported a “surprise” meal each week, not being informed of all details beforehand.

Canapés. We were treated to three starters. In no particular order, Gareth’s homemade focaccia to match his dukka creation. This was followed by sardines pickled with mascarpone and spices on crisp bread rounds. Finally small skewers upon which were mounted buffalo bocconcini balls, roasted dried tomatoes and basil with olive oil. Our 43 members had no trouble disposing of all canapés.

Aperitif wine. To start the Italian wine component of the feast Paul served us Ronco Gelso Sot Lis Rivis Friuli 2014 from Northeast Italy. Friulis are Pinot Grigio (called Pinot Gris in other areas) fruit, this one under cork at 13% alcohol. Aromatic and richer than a usual Friuli possibly from aging in old oak barrels. The fruity style went well with the canapés but some found it too fruity.

Main course. Ted and Gareth put much effort in the some 250 kangaroo tail ravioli served to us. This represented 13 kg of tail. Ted joked one was the animal hit between Orange and Parkes. We think he was joking!

The presentation was beautiful. Soft pasta and meat in a sauce of great depth. The bread was put to good effect mopping up the sauce which included some Pinot Grigio. Ted place a kangaroo tail bone piece on each table as show of authenticity.

The wines – a wine lunch

• Allegrini Palazzo Della Torre Veronese IGT 2011 (“Valpolicella” style) (cork, 13.5%)
• Fontodi Chianti Classico 2011 (cork, 14.5%)
• Prunotto Barolo 2008 (cork, 13.5%)
• Aldo Conterno Lanhge Il Favot Nebbiolo 2008 (cork, 14.5%)
• Gaja Pieve Santa Restituta Brunello di Montalcino 2006 (cork, 15%)
• Antinori Badia a Passignano Chianti Classico Riserva 2006 (cork, 13.5%)

For many this was the best selection of wine at a lunch in some considerable time. The Allegrini stood out from the rest with its darker colour. Some raisined character from a small percentage of dried fruit gave it great depth. The Fontodi is an upper end Chianti Classico made from 100% Sangiovese. 2011 was not a top year but surprisingly full bodied and rich enough to cope with the food and the other 2011.

Next we had a pair of 2008s both Nebbiolo based. The Prunotto was a Barolo and very approachable at such a young age. A fine texture, savoury with a long finish. Not overly complex and the rusty tank water colour gave it away before the nose did. The Conterno, a Langhe Nebbiolo was a social class down from the Barolo and may have some Barbera mixed in as was traditional to give it a darker hue. It lacked a bit of structure compared to its higher placed companion.

Finally, the 2006s an exceptional year in Tuscany. Firstly the Gaja Brunello Montalcino which was the top wine of lunch for many. Whilst off young vines it had dark fruit befitting the ranking of the Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG). The fresh, soft red cherry palate was well balanced by moderate tannins. Wonderful. Antinori make much wine but the Badia is up there with its more expensive and best. It was showing its age a little but the power was still evident with some cherry still evident. It lost out to its wonderful predecessor.

Cheese and coffee. James Healey served an Australian cheese, L’Artisan Mountain Man a washed rind from cow’s milk from Victoria. It had a surprising pungency and was beautifully soft in texture. This was accompained by a simple but tasty radiccho and olive oil salad.

Spencer Ferrier matched our Italian theme with the high end (and expensive) illy brand coffee. Packed in steel canisters pressurised with an inert gas rather than air, the coffee is made from Arabica varieties from a range of countries. The plunger coffee presented with a floral note and was smooth with a definite chocolate finish. A real treat.

19 July 2016

During this lunch delivered by James Hill we were reminded that his week marks 100 years since the World War I battles of Fromelles and Pozieres, two of the deadliest and most gruesome in Australimilitary history. Saly media gave it little attention despite the estimate that there were some 5,500 Australian casualties on the first day. Our most senior member, Wal Edwards, provided a stirring ode to one of the darkest days of Australia’s history.

Canapés. James and his trusty aides, James Healey and Paul Ferman, treated us to three choices.  All three were served on the fine bread of Iggy’s of Bronte, the star of Sydney’s bread. Firstly, hot smoked trout with a garlic aioli sauce. This was followed by a red pepper (pimento) mousse of a most startling red/pink colour and (with for those lucky enough to be right place) some chorizo. Finally, an olive tapenade with tuna and anchovy. We were fortunate to have such a fine range of choice and ingredients to start this lunch.

Aperitif wine. As an accompaniment to the canapes we enjoyed a Peter Lehmann Eden Valley Riesling 2008. Under screwcap the 8 yo Riesling was in wonderful condition. Little aging was evident by sight and a lively citrus nose was complemented by a spritely acid mouth feel. Years to go.

Main course.  James presented a meal to appeal to the senses with a range of ingredients on the serving plate. The Poulet Basquaise was a presented using a Maryland cut involving piment d’espelette (a chilli variety from Basque), Bayonne ham (baked and laid over the meal, yummy), chorizo, red peppers and much more. It was served with tiny tomatoes, brown rice and rapini, a green cruciferous vegetable pretty well unknown to most of us. A complex dish well delivered.

The main was an outstanding success measured by the frantic sales of leftover portions.

The wines.

• Chateau Moulin Haut Villars (Fronsac, Bordeaux) 2010 (cork, 14%)
• Anne Gros/Jean-Paul Tollot LA 50/50 2012 (Languedoc-Roussillon) (cork, 14%)
• Macquariedale Estate Reserve Shiraz (Hunter) 2006 (cork, 13.5%)
• Wynns Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 (cork, 14%)

Surprisingly the first set were not, with food, not a million miles apart. The Fronsac was predominately Merlot but still had the Bordeaux dusty tannins softened with the grape’s attributes. The Languedoc-Roussillon wine was as the name suggest approximately 50/50 Syrah and Carignan. A spicy, textured, grapey wine which one member described as “pretty”. A style of wine that some will find at odds with the traditional wines kept by the Society. A beauty for our meal.

The Macquariedale was somewhat of a throwback in style and one informed member summed it up with “interesting”. Enough said. The Black Label was, well, a Wynns Black Label. True to style a full flavoured Coonawarra Cabernet with much time left. At 10 years of age very likeable.

Cheese and coffee. Dr Healey served us a Le Marquis Chevre du Pelussin goats’ milk fromage from the Rhone Alps. Almost fully aged it had a wonderful runny perimeter with a creamy texture. A fine cheese served with a fennel, artichoke, parsley and lemon salad.

Spencer Ferrier presented a New Guinea Pearl (or peaberry) coffee. Look at last week’s notes to understand peaberry. A medium bodied style and part of our ongoing education.

12 July 2016

In history 12 July 1962 marks The Rolling Stones first ever live performance at the Marquee Club, London. The day before they came up with the name The Rollin’ Stones lifted from a Muddy Waters song. They played songs by their heroes Jimmy Reed, Bo Diddley and Chuck Berry. The rest is history.

On this occasion Martin McMurray on vocals and his lead guitarist Peter Kelso provided a great meal topped off with lamb rack.

Canapés. We were served two. Firstly, served on bread, smoked salmon with crème fraîche and mayonnaise topped with salmon roe of excellent quality. Then followed a curious spicy cheese based biscuit with Martin’s secret ingredient, Rice Bubbles courtesy of Kellogg's. Interesting.

Aperitif wine. As a starter we enjoyed Tyrrells Stevens Vat 4 Semillon. Under screwcap and at 12% there was no bottle variation and was in the mould of a classic HV Semillon albeit not as dry as some.

Main course.  In a nutshell we enjoyed rack of lamb with a caramelised onion glace sauce with sweet potato/pistachio mash and fennel. The lamb, sourced from across the ditch, was perfectly cooked with an even pink colour. From comments, this applied across the room and an achievement given the challenges of the kitchen arrangements.

The wines.

$1·         Bowen Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 (cork, 14.5%)

$1·         Huntington Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 (screwcap, 13.8%)

$1·         Chateau Musar Jeune 2010 (Lebanon) (cork, 14%)

$1·         Tyrrells Vat 47 Chardonnay 2007 (screwcap, 14%)

The first two wines were both a wonderful complement for the sweet lamb. However, there were two clear views. The Bowen was a sweeter Coonawarra style that some preferred but some thought the dusty tannins of the Mudgee wine was the more elegance to suit the lamb and showed less alcohol.

A red and a white were served with the cheese. The Chateau Musar was the second wine of this famous Lebanese producer (established 1930) made from Cinsault (sometimes called Blue Imperial in Australia), Syrah and Cabernet. Some were unfamiliar with the maker and one of the Society’s aims is to educate which is a nice fit in this case. Cinsaut is the fourth most widely planted grape variety in France, and is especially important in Languedoc-Roussillon. Most thought it an easy drinking wine being un-oaked with ripe abundant fruit. Not a touch of the jammy characters we often see.

It’s unusual to have a white wine with our cheese but the nine year old Vat 47 was an inspired match with the cheese. This wine under screwcap was in fine form. Stone fruit and well balanced use of oak indicates some time yet to go.

Cheese and coffee. James presented us a Clarines des Perrin cow’s milk washed rind fromage from Franche Comte region on the Swiss border. New to many of us it had a visually attractive golden rind with a buttery reddish texture. Fully ripe. It was served with grapes and walnuts.

Spencer Ferrier presented Tanzania Peaberry coffee. The beans are half the size of a “normal” bean. Medium bodied, floral with a firm chocolate finish.

Detailed note for those with some time on their hands:

Peaberries (also caracol or caracolillo, “little snail” in Spanish) result when the coffee fruit develops a single oval bean rather than the usual pair of flat-sided beans. A half-hearted, vestigial crevice meanders down one side of the little egg-shaped beans. Botanists observe that peaberries develop when only one of two ovaries in the flower are pollinated or accept pollination, thus producing one seed rather than two – an only child, as it were, in a species in which twins are the norm. Since Arabica coffee is self-pollinating (the same flower can impregnate itself) excessive peaberry production is a sign of general infertility of the plant.